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ATI
CONSULTING
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WEB SITE ©
Copyright
1996-2024 by
ATI Consulting.
All Rights Reserved.
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Electronically-assisted bicycles, a.k.a. ebikes,
have become all the rage and show only increasing interest. They are popular across
all age ranges, especially older cyclists who don't quite have the stamina they once
did. In fact, ebikes have renewed interest in cycling for many of those who thought
their pedaling days were over. Watch for more people to use ebikes to commute to
work, as well as older folks to hit the trails again!
As an bike rider for many decades, my first ebike experience was magical -- it felt
like cheating! Ebikes don't do the work for you, but gently assist, a bit like someone
pushing you, or being on a tandem bike with a strong second rider. So you can still
get a work-out if you want to do, but can choose more assistance if desired, such
as going up hills, or at the end of a long trip. You are in control of how much assistance
you get, from none at all to full throttle mode. I do not recommend either extremes,
except in special cases. Instead, try to pedal as much as you can. You'll get a better
work-out, use less battery, and go farther.
There's a lot written about ebikes, right now, and expect to see even
more. This particular page hopes to put much of what you need to know all neatly
into one place. Hopefully the information here will help you make an informed choice
before you buy anything, and help you know what to expect after the purchase.
Table
of Contents
Determining where you will ride the most and the conditions of those locations is
likely the most important step in determining which ebike is best for you.
By your house
If you will be just puttering short distances around your home on quiet, paved
village streets and/or country roads, then it’s likely any ebike will work – as long
as it’s comfortable. Make sure your local bike shop can work on it, though, first.
In fact, ideally get their recommendation for an ebike. Ask them if you can test
drive or rent an ebike for a little while.
Away from home
If you plan to use your ebike away from home, you'll need to transport
it somehow. And/or if you are going to take it on longer rides – then there’s whole
a lot more to be considered. Hence this Web page.
I knew these things applied to me, so I spent weeks looking into many ebike brands
and models and could not come up with a perfect solution for all I wanted from an
ebike, an ebike company, and price. I lucked-out when a family member sold me his
used one at a good price that I was able to modify to fit my needs.
Roads and streets
Certainly, one can ride an ebike on streets and roads. But, gravel roads are difficult,
so instead you’ll want paved roads and those with wide, well-maintained shoulders.
Still, there are cars to contend with and that’s always a headache (for you and for
them). And that can be quite literally, so a helmet is required. You’ll want to find
some good paved roads with little and slow-speed traffic. But one advantage to roads
and streets is that all three classes of ebikes (see "Ebike
classification" below) are allowed on them, at least in Michigan.
Bike paths
Ideally you have some bike paths in your area.
There are some out there that are not paved, and these vary in quality from almost
like cement (well-packed down, solid, and relatively smooth) to something akin to
a gravel road (large, loose pebbles and rocks). The former is fine for many types
of bikes, but the latter is horrible. Most non-paved bike paths out there are somewhere
in between, generally bumpier than streets (and so harder on your body parts), and
are not that much fun. They also take much more battery "juice" if you’re
riding for any decent distance. But they can be "acceptable" for short
distances.
Ideally, you have some paved bike paths nearby, and in good condition. These are
smooth and comfortable, one can even go no-handed. And they take the least of amount
of battery "juice", allowing you to go farther, or get by with a smaller
capacity battery.
Paved (mostly) bike trails in northwestern lower Michigan, and a few just beyond...
Where I live in northwestern lower Michigan, there are many
paved bike paths, seven of which are longer and dedicated biking/hiking paths
– from 4 to 92 miles. They are all in good shape.
But there are even more bike trails just outside the scope of the above Web page:
- Grayling Bicycle
Turnpike — a 10-mile-long paved path from the Hanson Hill Recreation Area west
of Grayling, through the city of Grayling, then north out to the Hartwick Pines State
Park.
- Hart-Montague State Trail — a 22-mile-long, beautiful, mostly wooded,
paved trail which goes from Hart, through Mears, Shelby, New Era, and Rothbury before
reaching Montague (and its neighbor Whitehall). It's in great shape and very much
recommended. Web
site 1, Web site
2.
- Little Traverse
Wheelway — a 26-mile-long paved path from Charlevoix through Petoskey to Harbor
Springs, which goes parallel to, and often right along side, the Lake Michigan shore.
- North
Central State Trail — a 73-mile-long fine crushed stone path from Waters just
south of Gaylord, through Gaylord, Indian River, Cheboygan, and ending at Mackinaw
City. In this case, although it's not paved, it's not that much slower that an asphalt
surface. Recommended.
- North
Western State Trail — a 32-mile-long path from Petoskey to Mackinaw City. The
first 8 miles is paved, from Petoskey to Alanson. The rest of the way is fine crushed
stone.
- Pere Marquette State Trail — around 86 miles from Baldwin to Midland.
- The 17 miles from Baldwin to Reed City is a loose pebble surface, and the 16
miles from Reed City to just east of Evart is an older asphalt surface with trail-wide
cracks in it at very short regular intervals, and grass growing out of the cracks,
Neither sruface is fun at all on bikes, so those two sections are not recommended
for bikes.
- However, the 53 miles from just east of Evart all the way to Midland the paved
trail in good shape and very much recommended. (Just note thst you have to
take streets for a few miles right now to get through the city of Clare,)
- White Pine Trail
— a 92-mile-long trail from Cadillac to Comstock Park (just north of Grand Rapids).
- The paved northern portion from Cadillac south to Reed City is mostly in great
shape and is a joy to ride (except for just north of Reed City, where the trail
surface is old with some full-width cracks). The 14 miles from the Cadillac trailhead
to LeRoy is maybe my favorite trip of any out there in northwestern lower
Michigan.
- From just north of Reed City to Big Rapids, the trail surface is old with
some full-width cracks, some even grass-filled.
- From Big Rapids to Russel Road south of Cedar Springs, for all but two short
gravel sections, the pavement is new or least in decent shape.
- South of Russel Road the asphalt is old with full-width cracks.
Be respectful on the paths
As long as I'm talking about bike trails, I should remind everyone to be polite
as possible on the these paths, especially ebikers. As an ebike rider, you'll tend
to go faster than regular bikes, so you'll be doing a lot of passing of other bikers
as well as any walkers. Be sure to slow down to close to the speed of the person(s)
being passed, and well beforehand call out calmly, "coming up on your left"
(or right). You do not want to spook them. They may be surprised enough when you
call out, as ebikes are usually pretty quiet, as well. I usually do a "ding,
ding" on a bell well beforehand, then gently call out when I get closer. People
really appreciate the warning that you are there and want to pass. I usually add
a "thank you" as both the one passing or the one being passed.
Ebikers have an obligation to be extra respectful of others on the trails and be
mindful of one's speed. Since ebikes have motor-assistance they, can move much faster
than other trail traffic, if the rider chooses. For now, ebikes are being allowed
on the bike trails (in many areas). We do not want to jeopardize that opportunity
and develop a bad reputation of just whizzing by folks with no care whatsoever for
them. (That's seen often enough by certain other riders of normal bikes who think
they are training for the Olympics, and so everyone else on the trail is just in
their way. They zoom by very fast, sometimes never saying a word of warning or respect.
They are seen as a much bigger issue on the trails than ebikes).
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How your ebike will be transported needs to be strongly considered when determining
which ebike is best for you.
If the areas you plan on riding your ebike are not within riding distance of where
you live, now you have to look at some way to transport the bike. Unless you are
going with a friend who already has one, you’ll need to invest in a good quality
bike rack. And not just any bike rack, but one that can handle the extra weight
of an ebike (see "Ebike Weight" below). And, YOU
have to be able to easily load and unload the bike yourself. With the average weight
of an ebike coming in at 65 pounds (twice that of a normal bike), that’s not always
an easy task. (One trick, of course, is to remove the battery before loading the
ebike, as these can be as much as 10 pounds. That helps a bunch. Plus, you don’t
want the battery popping loose while driving!)
Weight should be strongly considered when determining how you will transport your
ebike.
Ebikes are much heavier than normal bikes by about double — they are generally between
45 and 85 pounds! The heavier-duty tires, thicker spokes, motor, wiring, controller,
battery, throttle, and console add up! The battery accounts for 7 to 10 pounds of
the weight of the bike, and luckily on most ebikes, the battery can be removed (a
feature you want when loading and unloading and to prevent theft.ºå
Ebikes have three classes:
An ebike can be more than just one class. For example, a Class 3 ebike might also
be a Class 2 and have a throttle. As far as I know, all Class 2 bikes are also Class
1, so they include pedal assistance up to 20 mph. Many ebikes come as Class 1 or
2, but can be modified via the (electronic control) console to a Class 3.
I highly recommend at least a Class 2 (so you have a throttle).
You still have the Class 1 pedal assistance available but add the throttle feature,
as well, if needed. There are many times when a throttle is handy, such as to get
moving as you get on the bike (this is esepcially handy as ebikes are heavier and
a so are a little harder to get moving), if you want to move along but don't want
to pedal for a little while, or if you want to stand up while riding over a bumpy
patch but also want to keep moving steaily. But don't get used to using just the
throttle only, as doing so eats up a lot of battery "juice", and then you
don't get any exercise!
Local laws and ordinances can affect which class of ebikes are allowed and where.
In Michigan, for example:
- All classes of ebikes are allowed on streets.
- NO ebikes are allowed on natural surface trails (that is, mountain bike trails).
- On paved bike paths, only Class 1 bikes are allowed. However, at least in northwestern
lower Michigan, this is not enforced unless one is being a jerk about it. So,
stay under 20 mph and be polite. We see ebikes all over on the bike paths up here.
(But there are way more issues from folks riding regular bikes too fast and/or not
being polite to others on the path.)
Check your state and local laws and ordinances to see how ebikes are governed
and if the rules are enforced.
There are many ebike companies out there and new ones are popping up all of the
time. Some have good customer service, many do not. That’s something to look at very
closely. I suspect some of the better companies will survive and become more popular
while others will die off.
There’s kind of a multiple-prong "whammy” going on:
- There’s a huge demand for ebikes.
- Because many mid-price ebikes are shipped directly to the customer:
- several things can get damaged during shipping.
- the bikes must be at least partially put together by the customer and that can
be a rather tricky job to do.
- There are more items and issues to maintain with ebikes.
- Because of the above, there’s a large demand for customer support, therefore,
customer service can be easily overwhelmed.
- There’s a shortage of customer service staff.
- There can be a shortage of parts from the factories.
So, having trouble with your ebike then trying to get it fixed can be a headache.
Therefore, try to choose a company with both a good product AND great customer service.
Because things can go wrong right from the start, and can/will happen over time.
And learn about all warranties that apply to the ebikes you're considering. (You
want at least one year on electronic components.) Ask any prospective company how
long they keep replacement parts available. Also ask the company for proof of certification
ti UL 2849.
I’ve found the BBB to be very helpful with seeking oiut a decent company and their
support. If there are any issues or complaints, look to see if they are handled by
the company, and how well.
I’ve provided details for some companies that appear to be very good in "Specific ebike companies" below.
Not all bike shops will work on all bikes, especially ebikes. Visit your local
shops to find out if they service all brands or only specific ones. Ask them what
brands they recommend. That way, even if a given ebike company has good customer
service, you’ll know you can also get the ebike fixed locally. Ebikes require a lot
more regular maintenance, so having a relationship with a good repair shop is essential.
Try before you buy.
Many popular tourist areas have bike rental places, and some of those have ebikes.
In addition, retail bike shops that sell ebikes likely also rent them, or will at
least let you test drive them. Perhaps one of the wisest things you can do is test
out or rent for a few hours several makes and models of ebikes. This is very helpful
so you can get a feel for how ebikes work, as well as what style and design fits
you best.
Looking at recreational ebikes for paths and streets, a common style is the commuter
style, but you may find it a bit too much on the "aggressive" side. It's
more likely you’ll like the cruiser style much better. It has swept-back handlebars
and a geometry that has you sitting upright. This style alleviates weight on your
wrists and is the easiest on your back, but it does put most of your weight on the
seat, so you’ll need to be sure to get a good one. Regardless of what comes on a
bike, you can always upgrade the seat, if needed. Many people do.
Of course, you'll want to adjust the height and position of the seat, and the height
and position of the handlebars to fit your desired body height, position, and comfort
level. Sometimes taller seat posts and stem extenders, as well as different handlebars
are needed to accomplish this.
A note about setting the seat height:
On a road bike, we were taught that to be the most efficient, set the height
of the seat so that with the pedal in the lowest position and your heal on the pedal,
your leg is straight. And since we pedal with the balls of our feet, if you have
big feet, add a tiny bit more to the height. When I do that, I can just barely reach
the ground with the very tips of my toes when standing still. In general, most folks
will be uncomfortable with that. They'd like to have a better stance on the ground.
However, you do not want the seat set so low that you can touch the ground
flat-footed. That's very inefficient, your legs would be bent too much, and most
of your energy would be wasted. You might even get cramps over a long distance.
On an ebike, go for somewhere in the middle. Set the seat height so you feel
you have good balance while on the seat but at rest. Put the seat as high as you
can for the most efficiency, yet low enough so you feel just barely "comfortable
enough" when at rest and touching the ground. |
Ebikes with a regular or traditional frame with a top tube, sometimes called a
"boy’s bike" or "step-over" frame, are available, if desired.
But more and more, bike/ebike companies are offering models with a "step-through"
frame design. Once called a"'girl’s bike", that’s no long true. Both men
and women are choosing this design, especially if they are over a certain age and/or
have any leg issues, as this design is much easier to get on and off.
I don’t have a step-through design so I find I have to lay the bike over quite a
bit to get my leg over it. And I have long legs! (But I also have a tall seat post,
so that’s another reason why.)
But still, a lot of the '"step-over" frame designs with a top tube are
sort of a hybrid, in that the top tube is not horizontal, but angled downward by
the seat post a lot to accommodate riders of many heights. Then they use a long seat
post so it can be properly set for the rider’s height. Check the details for the
ebike you are interested in – those will tell you the recommended height range for
each specific model.
Ebikes come in two rough sizes.
- standard ebikes with standard-size wheels – typically 26" to 29"
in diameter,
- 20" ebikes with smaller wheels – 20" diameter.
The smaller wheels are often found on folding models, which are designed only
to take less space when being transported. But those models are typically not
any lighter and are often heavier than standard-size ebikes. And any bike
with smaller wheels is much squirrelly than standard-sized bikes, less forgiving,
and more sensitive when one jiggles the handlebars. And they will give the rider
a bumpier ride.
On the other hand, standard-size bikes are more forgiving, less squirrelly, go in
a straight line easier, offer a smoother ride, and are often lighter than the small-wheel
folding models.
Also, if you are a shorter person, do not feel you have to get a small-wheel bike,
as most standard-size ebikes these days accommodate people of a wide range of heights.
Some companies even offer different frame sizes for a given model to accommodate
many rider heights.
So only if you have very limited space when transporting your ebike do I recommend
a smaller-wheel ebike. Instead, choose one with standard-size wheels.
Batteries are essential – they are the life-blood of the ebike. But replacement
ones are expensive – in 2022 the price ran from $350 to $550 for ebikes in the mid-price
range that I looked at. Some companies offer a free or a deal on a second battery
when you buy one of the ebikes – ask about that.
There is a bit more maintenance with an ebike, specifically the battery. One of the
tasks involved is keeping it charged to 40% to 60% of its capacity when it's not
in use, to help maintain the battery's life.
Like all rechargeable batteries, ebike batteries have a limited life – after so many
uses (perhaps 500 charges), their ability to hold a charge will be significantly
less than when it was new. At some point a new battery will be required. (One has
to hope their ebike company is still in business AND the specific battery for their
ebike model is available! That could be a huge concern as companies come and go.
It's possibble we could wind up with a lot of ebikes with dead batteries.)
Look for batteries that use LG or Samsung cells – those are said to
be the best.
Also look for batteries that are removable -- this makes the ebike easier to load,
unload, and transport as they will weight 8 to 10 pounds less. And you can remove
the battery when it's unattended. A removable battery allows you to charge it off
the bike. And removable batteries also lock into place so they cannot be easily stolen
if left in place while the bike is unattended for a short time.
Look for ebike companies offering a long warranty on the battery, even as much as
five years – but those are uncommon. (Although the Electric
Bike Company below offers a 5-year battery warranty.)
There are a bunch of details one can get into regarding the electronics. But here
are a few basic things to know:
- Watts = power. (Watts = amps times voltage.)
- The more Watt-hours (Wh) a battery has the more "capacity"
or range it will have. It tells you how much power you can expect over time. For
example, a 700Wh battery is very good, but a 350Wh battery is on the light side.
On the former battery, you’11 get 700 Watts of power for one hour or 350 Watts for
TWO hours. On the latter battery, you'll get only 350 Watts for one hour.
- How many watts of power that’s used depends on many factors and will vary with
wind, trail surface, hills, your weight, ebike weight, tires,
tire pressure, how much you pedal, the pedal assist level used,
how much you use the throttle, etc. So... if you don’t often
ride very far, or on many hills, don’t use the throttle very much, use a low pedal
assist level, and do so on pavement, with road-type tires, then a smaller capacity
(in Wh) battery may be enough.
- If you don’t know the Watt-hours for a battery, the ebike company should at least
tell you the amp-hours (often between 10 and 15Ah) and the voltage of
the ebike's electrical system, such as 36V or 48V. Multiply the amp-hours times the
voltage and you have the Watt-hours. For example, for a battery that’s 48V and 12Ah,
gives you a battery capacity of 576Wh.
All ebikes have a least one way to show how much battery capacity is available
– many have two – usually something crude on the battery itself as well as a gauge
on the ebike's console – it’s important to keep an eye on this. But the gauge may
not be linear, and conditions and the way you ride may change through a given charge
of the battery – so it's often hard to predict how far you can go or how many miles
you can expect – in total and for the charge that’s left.
But here's a relatively simple solution that worked for me. Just do some tests, as
I did. My battery charge display on the LCD console shows five segments. But I learned
they are not equal – I get a different number of miles from each one. I did several
tests under ideal conditions (flat, paved path, light to no wind, good road tires
fully inflated), staying in the same pedal assist level, pedaling steadily, and using
no throttle. I found a fairly consistent number of miles for each segment. So now
I know the maximum number of miles possible for each battery display segment,
as well as the total range for my ebike for a fully charged battery. I also noted
how riding under anything less than ideal conditions (such as a gravel trail versus
paved path, using higher pedal assist level, not working as hard, lower tire pressure,
and/or headwind) significantly lowered the number of miles for a given segment. That
helped me to know the "minimum" values, too, for my ebike in case
I encounter such conditions/situations.
Your range will be different, of course, but you can get the idea about the
many factors affecting ir. On the review sites I saw ranges of 30 to 80 miles from
various ebikes, but most typical was a range of 40 to 60 miles under ideal conditions.
There's been an increase in fires caused by the lithium-ion batteries used in ebikes,
and so, there has been a push by authorities for improved saftey of ebikes, batteries,
and their motors. This is an onging issue. Ideally, chose an ebike whose electronic
components at a minimum are UL Safety Certified for UL 2849.
The wattage of the motor is important – it’s the amount of power
it can produce at any given moment. You’ll usually see motors between 350W and 750W.
(But there are 1000W motors out there) 750W is the largest motor allowed in Michigan.
I have a 500W motor and it’s fine for most hills. Note that even a 500W motor can
usually temporarily produce a much higher peak power, such as 750W.
(Warning: Be sure to never over-tax a
motor for very long. Follow what's called for in Going up a hill
below. Because putting too much strain on the motor can damage the motor's internal
gear and/or electronics. One good example of over-taxing the motor would if one started
at the bottom of a steep hit from a standing start, then using the highest pedal
assist level or full throttle. Stop engaging the motor before you come to a full
stop.)
A higher-powered motor will make all the difference when going up hills. It will
use a lot of battery "juice" available, but, you'll be more likely to make
it up a given hill (especially with a decent amount of pedaling effort on your part).
Know that usually, with a more powerful motor, you’ll need a battery with higher
capacity (more Wh), to pair with it.
Related is the amount of torque a motor can produce. It's a measure of the
amount of force a motor can put out. This typically ranges from 30 to 80 Nm (Newton
meters) for ebikes. So if you expectt to do a lot of hills, you'll want a motor capable
of a high torque.
Many pricier ebikes have what’s called a mid-drive motor that’s located
at the crank between the pedals. Motors are heavy, so putting the motor mid-way between
the front and rear wheels better balances the weight of the bike. These ebikes will
usually use a torque sensor to tell the motor how much power to put out. The
more torque you put on the pedals, the more power you'll get from the motor. Some
riders claim this feels more natural. Since the mid-drive motor drives the chain,
you can also use the bike's gears like you would with a car or motorcycle to affect
the speed/power to the rear wheel. One downside, however – if the chain breaks, you’re
out of luck., and walking your ebike the rest of the trip. And know that mid-drive
motors put a lot more stress on the chain and gears.
On the other hand, most mid-priced and lower-priced ebikes use a hub-drive motor
that’s located in the hub of the rear wheel. If the chain breaks, it’s no problem,
just use the throttle (that many models come with) to take
you home! Hub-drive motors put no stress on the chain or gears. Through their own
internal gears this type of motor simply rotates the rear wheel. To handle the extra
weight, rear wheels with hub-drive motors will have larger diameter spokes. Bikes
with these motors usually use a cadence sensor, which tells the motor to provide
power only if you are moving the pedals (whether a lot or just a little, it does
not matter). Stop pedaling and the motor turns off – you don’t stop moving, of course,
but are just coasting. To me, a hub-drive motor feels like someone pushing you, from
just a little to quite a lot, depending on the pedal assist level.
When pedaling, the amount of power the motor offers is determined by what PAS
(pedal assist) level you are in. The amount is a percentage of the total sustained
power capability of the motor. Although configurable on some ebikes, there are typically
five PAS levels which might be set to 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100% power from the motor.
(Some ebikes let you set the power output for each level, too, which can be VERY
handy.)
The PAS level may feel like it’s set to give you a certain speed, but that’s not
true. It’s only giving you a set percent of power from the motor. If you are barely
pedaling at all, you’ll get one speed, but if you supplement the motor with a bit
of "power" of your own, you’ll go even faster. Your speed will depend on
the total combined power provided you and the motor. (Of course, your speed also
depends on many factors, such as how aerodynamic you are (sitting upright versus
bent forward), wind direction and speed, tires, your weight, weight of the bike,
and road/path surface.) Along with those factors, the PAS level also determines how
much battery is used. So, to maximize your range, use the lowest PAS level – use
a higher PAS level and/or the throttle only sparingly.
And remember, ebikes have gears just like a normal bike (and they vary with
each model, of course), so adjust those for your desired speed and how much power
you want to supply.
If you are brand new to ebikes, take a few minutes to get used to the ebike experience.
This assumes you've already adjusted things to fit YOU as mentioned in Ebike
style.
First, pedal the bike with NO assistance. Get used to that for a few minutes. Make
sure you are fully comfortable on the bike. (If not, make the necessary adjustments.)
Practice starting and stopping. See how the bike handles in turns.
After a short time doing that, stop and turn the ebike on. Start up again and once
rolling along, set the pedal assist to Level 1. Then pedal a little
bit and notice what happens – you'll feel a very gentle push! Pedal a little harder
and the motor pushes a little more, as well. Next, coast (stop pedaling) and see
what happens. You should notice the motor shuts off and is no longer pushing you.
But start pedaling, even a littlle bit, and the motor comes alive again. Practice
starting and stopping, but this time with pedal assistance turned on.
When you are ready, try higher levels of pedal assistance. And play with the gears
(they are the same as on a normal bike) and how much energy you want to put into
the equation for how fast you want to go. In general, I'd say use the gears first,
then if needed, adjust the PAS level for a given situation.
Going up an incline of any steepness requires a lot more effort than traveling
on level ground. This is easy to see when climbing stairs versus walking on flat
ground, because you are needing to lift your own weight to some extent. A nice-rolling
bike with little to no wind on flat pavement takes very little effort to keep moving
forward. But hit a hill and instantly you’ll notice an extra amount of work is needed!
It’s no different on an ebike. The motor provides assistance, but only so much. Small
hills might slow you down a little and require you to downshift, but longer and/or
steeper ones will likely also require a much higher PAS level
(providing more power from the motor) and fair amount of power from you, as well.
(Do not expect to use only the throttle – you'll never make
it if you do!) But with your effort and the motor's combined, you will be pleasantly
surprised by the hills "the two of you" together can tackle! (I’ve made
it up two steep hills on the east side of Benzonia (Homestead Road and Walker Street)
doing this with no problem!)
One tip — as you approach a taller/longer hill, switch to a higher PAS level beforehand,
shift to a lower gear (which gives your effort more power), and try to hit the hill
with a bit of speed. And heed the warning in the Ebike motor power
section.
Many ebikes today offer a throttle, and if present, are considered a Class 2 ebike.
A throttle can be a little lever you push with your thumb, or part of a handgrip
you twist. Using the throttle makes you go without any pedaling at all, just like
on a motorcycle! In the USA, ebikes are limited to 20 mph using just the throttle.
If your legs are getting weary, using the throttle lets you keep traveling while
resting your legs. And using the throttle is a nice way to get moving from a standing
start. But be aware, using only the throttle uses the most from the battery’s capacity,
therefore giving you the shortest range. Where you might otherwise get 40 to 60 miles
in PAS level 2 from a single battery charge, you may get just 20 miles using only
the throttle. It’s because you are not offering the motor any assistance at all.
So in general, one should use the throttle only sparingly.
Because most of my riding is on paved trails, I’ve made sure I have tires with
a tread pattern without a lot of "knobs" as found on a mountain bike, but
instead one that offers a very low rolling resistance. To complement that, I also
went with the narrowest ebikes tires (1.75") which offers the lowest rolling
resistance and the best agility. And the lower the rolling resistance, the longer
the battery lasts, therefore one gets the most range.
But note – one does not want skinny tires like those common on road bikes. Ebikes
are heavier, run faster, encounter more bumps and changing conditions, so even though
1.75" feels extra wide at first, it's the minimum recommend width for an ebike
tire. This width is also needed to handle occasional non-paved sections and to better
handle any bumps. And to be durable enough over the long-term.
So the Kenda
Kwick Seven.5 tires are the ones I chose, as they are very good for streets and
paved paths, yet can also handle being on gravel, when needed. They are also puncture
resistant!
Although they will work, knobby tires and fat tires (4" wide) are not
ideal for paved paths, as they have a much higher rolling resistance and use a lot
more battery "juice". (My range increased by 38% by going from very knobby
tires to the Kenda Kwick tires.) And knobby tires have poorer traction on paved trails.
On the other hand, on unpaved trails, knobby tires should offer better traction than
those designed for pavement.
Also, fat tire bikes are designed to ride on (and/or on top of) loose material –
gravel, sand, dirt, snow. If you’re never going to ride on those, stick with tires
around 2” wide (or less).
Ebikes are heavier and travel at higher speeds than standard bikes, so they need
better stopping power. Therefore, most of the ebikes out there, at least above the
Walmart level, use rotors (thin disks) and pads that squeeze on these – similar to
disc brakes on a car or motorcycle. There are two types – mechanical and hydraulic
operated brakes. Most experts highly recommend hydraulic brakes for their stopping
power, and they don’t squeal like mechanical brakes do. Some say hydraulic brakes
require more maintenance, but it's agreed they are worth it for their positive features.
Note that most (but NOT all) ebikes have switches built in that shut off the motor
when you apply the front and/or rear brake. This makes sense, for if you are pedaling
or have the throttle on and then apply the brakes, you do not want the motor fighting
your braking action. Be sure to look for this feature.
Bike and ebike companies usually just make the bicycle's frame, then buy all the
essential components from vendors and assemble everything.
Some of the many components involved include: wheels, tires,
motor, battery, controller, throttle,
front and rear sprockets, front and rear derailleurs, shifting mechanism, chain,
crank, pedals, brakes, seat, seat post, handlebars, stem, and
front shocks (if present). It's not uncommon for riders to modify some of these,
such as the tires, seat, seat post, stem, and handlebars from what comes on their
ebike.
There are many levels of quality available with components, and the cost of them
is usually a good indication of that – which is typically reflected in the total
price of the bike/ebike You want known-good, name-brand components. Components not
named, or just stamped with the company’s name, are something to watch out for. They
may not be well made, of high quality, or reliable.
A note about front shocks and suspension seat posts:.
If present, having front shocks for absorbing shocks from bumps encountered
on even the best paths or streets, let alone rough trails and roads, are a wonderful
thing. To add to the experience, consider changing to a suspension seat post,
as well. These are spring loaded and help absorb shocks on the other end of your
torso. Your bottom with thank you! |
In addition to essential components there are several optional accessories. These
include: fenders, lights, racks (front and rear), rack bags, under-seat bag, frame
bag, bell mounted on the handlebars, and mirror mounted on the handlebars. Fenders,
lights, and racks sometimes come with the bike or are available as options for a
given model. Many accessories are available from bike companies as well as local
and online stores.
Accessories I recommend:
- Fenders — if you want to stay dry. Puddles are common on bike paths after a rain,
not to mention wet pavement while it's raining. Path surfaces in the woods or tunnels
can be moist.
- Lights — are important to make sure you're seen anytime of day. They are essential
when around any kind of traffic. And when it's dark, they help you see what's ahead,
of course. Lights that come built-in are the most convenient.
- Rear rack — extremely handy for bring anything with you.
- Rear rack bag — very handy to put your stuff in
- Bell — very handy as part of the alert system when approaching and overtaking
others
- Mirror — extremely handy for seeing anyone behind you and possibly approaching
you — other bikers as well as traffic!
By the way, here are some "optional" things to think about to "accessorize"
your trip...
Items to bring along with you:
- Key for battery
- Plenty of water
- Snack bar or similar for a quick burst of energy
- Tube repair kit
- Spare tubes
- Toolkit to work on all (or many) of the items on your bike
- Light jacket or sweatshirt if it might get cool
- Map
- Cell phone
- Bike lock and keys
- Tire pump (a small one that can fit on your bike somewhere)
A few things to wear:
- A helmet is recommended, especially if you will be around any traffic, but at
least wear a baseball cap to keep the sun out of your eyes. I put a strap on my cap
to keep it from blowing off, which happened many times.
- Sunglasses or clear bicycle "blades" to keep the bugs out of your eyes.
This is likely anyway, and even more so because you'll be going faster on your ebike.
Ebike prices have a wide price range, from around $600 at Walmart to $6000 from
Mercedes Benz (seen during the summer of 2022) (I even found one super-high-end brand
with ebikes around $14,000!)
- I found that the local bike shops in nearby Traverse City, Michigan have higher-priced
ebike brands with models from $2000 to $5000. They are very nice and can be repaired
at those shops, but they’re way out of my range!
- Suttons Bay Bikes in Suttons Bay, Michigan is encouraging as they sell
and repari Aventon bikes, in the range of $1000 to $1800. Aventon bikes themselves
look very good; the complaints at the BBB came about from the customer support of
their direct sales. So it's great to see a local shop that sell and repairs these.
- A lot of the companies I looked at online have mid-priced ebikes ranging
from $1000 to $2500. Most of those are shipped direct to you from the company.
I certainly would not recommend a low-priced, Walmart-level ebike. To sell
at such a low cost, the components of these bikes will be very low cost, low quality,
and have low reliability. They may also be lacking many desired features and the
frames could be sub-par.
On the other end, it seems to me there’s no great reason to spend over $3000 on an
ebike unless you have a lot $$ burning a hole in your pocket.
Instead, like Goldilocks, you will find many good choices in between those two extremes
– in the mid-priced range.
Used ebikes are now starting to show up on the mauket and are a way that might
be able to save you some $$ to get started. In general, I would not recommend buying
one from a private party. Instead, get a fully-refurbished one from a reputable bike
shop. Ask them what type of warranty comes with the ebike.
Here are few review sites I've found very helpful:
These appear to be some of the "better" companies
offering ebikes in the mid-priced range (as of summer, 2022)
517 Superior Ave
Newport Beach, CA 92663-3630
(949) 264-4080
Web: http://www.electricbikecompany.com
Web: https://www.ethicalcommunity.org/electricbikecompanyllc
Business incorporated: 2014
Mr. Sean Lupton - Smith, Owner
Notes:
- Bikes are built entirely in CA.
- Bikes ship fully assembled, so all that the owner has to do is pull the bike
out of the box and adjust the handlebars.
- Proprietary, fire-proof batteries are examples of Electric Bike Company’s attention
to detail.
- The bikes are made to order and completely customizable, from color to branding
to accessories – colors (frame, fork spokes, rim, rear rack, fenders, etc.) motor,
batteries, accessories, and more.
- 5-year warranty on the battery (very unusal for an ebike in this price range)
- 10-year warranty on the motor and frame (very unusal for an ebike in this
price range)
- 30-day money back guarantee, no questions asked
BBB:
415 Laurel Street, Suite B
San Diego, CA 92101
888-494-1415
Web: https://www.ride1up.com
Started 2018
Mr. Kevin Dugger, Founder
Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/ride1up
BBB:
W4228 Church Road
Waldo, WI 53093
833-266-4432
They’re actually in Hingham, WI
Web: https://www.boogiebikes.com
Email: info@boogiebikes.com
Email: service@boogiebikes.com
Dean Dumez, CEO
Business started: 10/15/2019
YouTube channel –https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUQzpMbSFpfqIFURoXJr2IQ?app=desktop
Notes:
- They assemble the bike in Wisconsin, test it out, take it apart a little, then
ship it. They leave the front wheel attached.
- Customers need only put on the handlebars, twist on the pedals, and charge the
battery.
- Assembly video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOwaaJM_fPs&t=10s
- Free shipping (but knw that it costs them around $150)
- They are easy to work with to get issues resolved.
- U.S. Call Center.
BBB:
