The most important aspect of maintaining your computer is performing a
"back-up," that is, creating a back-up copy to other media of all that
is important to you on your computer. It is the only insurance you have if
something goes wrong.
And there are many things that can go wrong, such as the computer's hardware getting
damaged or failing, software gets damaged (due to crashes, viruses, incompatibilities),
or if your files become damaged or deleted.
If a file becomes corrupted, accidentally deleted, or infected by a virus, and you
don't have an copy of it it's gone forever!. You'll have to find another copy,
or recreate it from scratch. Having a back-up copy easily solves that problem. Just
copy the deleted items from the latest back-up to your computer.
If a hard disk becomes corrupted, infected by a virus, damaged by spyware, or otherwise
unreadable or usable, and you have a recent back-up of the entire disk you can
rest easy, that back-up can be used to restore all that was on the disk.
It's recommended to back-up of your entire hard disk. It allows you to recover
any file, folder, or software that got deleted or damaged. But at a bare minimum,
you should back up any information you would be devastated to lose.
And for all back-ups, do so regularly. A back-up cannot help if it's not done or
way out-of-date.
Storage Devices and Media
As of late 2010, common media for backing up are: writeable CDs, writeable DVDs,
USB flash drives, external hard drives, and back-ups via online services (in the
"cloud") stored on server computer via the Internet
- Writeable CDs and DVDs are not as convneient as other media ,but are probably
the best long-term (several years) solution. (And even so, some experrs say one should
make new copies of this data every 10 to 20 years just to be safe very important
for archived data.)
- USB flash drives are convneient and good for the short term, like daily or weekly
back-ups of critical files and foldesr, but are not a good long-term (several years)
solution.
- External hard drives These provide the most options. With their huge capacit,
it's possible to create a combination of system images / clones and back-up copies.
Consider an external hard drive that's perhaps three times larger that your total
hard disk space so it's large enough to accommodate all the options.
One option is to divide the disk into two partitions. Make one the same size as
the hard disk capacity on your computer. Use this for system images (Windows) or
a clone (Macs). Use the other partition for multiple back-up copies of your personal
data (save each in its own dated folder).
Keep the external hard drive off and unplugged from the power when not in
use then it cannot be accidentally corrupted, infected by a virus, or affected
by power problems or lightning. If you need to recover from a back-up, you certainly
want to make sure it's not damaged!
And choose a DESKTOP external hard drive over a PORTABLE one. Desktop hard drives
are more robust, are AC powered, and are designed to be left on one's desk at the
home or office. So they are not being jostled around in one's laptop case and seeing
warmer and colder temperatures. So for several reasons desktop hard drives are much
less likely to fail.
PORTABLE hard drives, are small, convenient but MORE likely to fail. If you REALLY
need to do back-up "on the road," OK, but get two of these and alternate
between them when backing up. Yet consider having a DESKTOP external hard drive back
at your home or office, as well then you'll have your important data on at least
two back-up devices.
Whatever external hard drive you buy, be sure to get one with a three-year warranty.
Many come with just a one-year warranty you don't want those!
- Fairly new on the scene is backing up online, over the Internet, to the "cloud"
basically storage space at computers you connect to via the 'Net. Like all back-up
solutions, this one has its pros and cons. A local back-up (to your own devices)
is still, by far, the recommended way to go, An online back-up can be convenient,
but consider it only as secondary solution. And be careful the online company you
are using can be temporarily down, go out of business, lose, look at, sell, or corrupt
your data, and more. Never put on "the cloud" anything that's super sensitive,
and anything you cannot afford to lose (and so what's the point?). Access to online
storage can be slow, depending on many factors. And usually you have to pay a monthly
or annual fee to get a reasonable enough space to handle all the data you need to
back up. On the other hand with your own back-up, you are in control of your data
making it a much safer solution.
Develop Back-up Plans
You'll likely want to have a multi-phase strategiy and on more that one device
like daily back-ups to a USB flash drive (or better yet and alternateing set of flash
drives), and weekly back-ups to a external hard drive. Determine what's best for
you based on how you work and what you need to back-up. How often the information
on your hard disk changes and its importance determines how often you should back
it up and how many backup sets to make.
If you're a regular computer user, try to back-up at least once a week.
If you have the space on the media you're using, create more than one back-up set
this can make all the difference if you accidentally deleted something several
back-ups ago. Having three back-up sets is recommended.
Consider also storing some back-up sets off-site yet another level of protection
if something drastic happens at your location.
Before Performing a Major Backup
It's recommended to do the following before any large back-up. (You should be doing
these things regularly, anyway!)
- Update and scan with any anti-virus and anti-spyware software you have.
- Remove any software no longer needed.
- Remove any extraneous files, if you know of any and where they reside. Don't
fill up your backup sets with unnecessary clutter. Remove old email and faxes, go
through those files and folders you've meaning to clean out, then empty the Trash/Recycle
Bin.
- Archive to CD or DVD any photos, movies, music, and other data that want to keep
but no longer need to be on your computer
- Run any disk repair utilities you have.
The Essential Backup
If you do nothing else, make a copy of any files that you would be devastated to
lose, such as precious photos, financial records, and important documents, and do
so on a regular basis.
Better yet is to copy ALL your personal files. This can include: documents, photos,
movies, music, etc. as well as data that might be stored in special locations, such
as: financial records, greeting card /business card type projects, databases, bookmarks
and favorites, email, contacts / address books, iTunes data, smart phone sync files,
etc. One issue is to make sure you have enough room on your back-up media for all
of that, especially photos, movies, music those can take significant file space.
In this scenario, you do not back-up:
- application software these are restored from the CDs/DVDs on which they came,
or re-downloaded if you obtained them online.
- the OS (operation system) it is reinstalled from the CDs/DVDs that came with
your computer or from the CDs/DVDs that you made (see Create
Repair and Recovery Disks). If you do not have these, obtain them (from the source
of your computer) or create them yourself, now!
In this scenario, if your hard drive goes "belly up," at least you've
saved your personal data, the most important stuff. You will, however have to reinstall
everything else, such as the OS, all your applications, utilities, Internet software,
peripheral software and drivers, third-party software, etc. All your preferences
are lost. And expect to lose some software for which you did not have originals.
This is the risk you take by not doing a full back-up (see the next section).
The Full Back-up
The ideal, however, is to backup your entire hard disk. This is by far the best thing
to do. If any file, folder, program, etc. goes bad, gets infected or deleted you're
covered. If your hard drive dies or the disk goes bad, and you have to reformat or
get a new one you're covered. It's a very simple way to avoid a major headache
down the road.
- If you have to restore all the files to your hard disk and you do NOT have a
complete backup of your hard disk, it's a very long and tedious procedure to reload
the OS, all the applications and utilities, and all your data (if you have it all
backed up), then reestablish all the preferences and settings for all your control
panels, system preferences, applications, utilities, etc. And there are always things
that get lost in the process.
- On the other hand, if you HAVE a complete back-up of your hard disk, it's a relatively
simple task to restore everything that was there, JUST the way you left it with all
preferences, settings, etc.
NOTE: Although this back-up includes your OS and applications, it's still important
to make sure you have the disks for these in some cases they need to be reinstalled
to get up and running again.
MACs
Simple Back-ups
For simple back-ups, go ahead and manually back-up all your own data, or even a COPY
of the hard disk. Just drag to a dated folder on your back-up media all information
that you want to save.
Note about making just a simple COPY of your hard disk you can drag your
hard disk icon onto your back-up media, and this will back up MOST files on your
hard disk. But it will not copy over everything, such as hidden files needed by the
operation system (OS) to do its job and that allow it to boot (start up) from the
back-up location. But, this method will copy over everything else, programs, utilities,
preferences, and data for all users, like documents, music, pictures, videos, email,
etc.
Or you can use a back-up utility program to create back-ups for you. Sometimes
these take less time because they do can do incremental back-ups. But they have to
configured and run properly so sometimes it's easier to do simple back-ups by hand.
To recover a file(s) or folder(s) from a back-up copy, in most cases you can simply
drag them from the back-up location to your main hard disk. If you used software
to make the back-up and it uses a special format in which to store back-ups, you'll
need to run the software to restore files / folders.
Clone Bootable Back-ups
But to obtain a full back-up that's also bootable, you want to create
what's called a CLONE. This creates a back up of your entire hard disk that
DOES copy over hidden files needed by the OS to boot. Most better back-up programs
can create a clone. With a clone, you know you have a complete copy of everything
on your hard drive, the OS included, and you can boot from the clone's back-up location.
Also, if your main hard disk goes bad, once it's replaced, you can do a restore from
the clone to your new hard disk, and you're quickly up and running again. A clone
takes over the entire hard disk, or if the drive is partitioned, the entire partition
being used.
To recover specific file(s) or folder(s) from a clone, simply drag them from the
back-up location to your main hard disk.
To do a complete restore from a cloned copy of your hard disk, use the same software
that created the clone, and make a "clone of the clone" going FROM the
back-up location TO your main hard disk.
Back-up Utility Programs
A few recommended back-up programs for Mac, both of which can back-up
your whole hard drive to another hard drive, writeable CDs, writeable DVDs, and more,
are:
Here are some other back-up utilities:
And there are likely several other back-up utilities available.
Time Machine Back-ups
With Apple's built-in Time Machine (in OS 10.5 and later), you can have
it automatically back-up everything on your Mac
to an external hard drive. It then checks every hour for any changes made, and backs
those up. Time Machine keeps track of all versions of your data based on the date.
To restore, just go to a the specific date, find your data, and drag it to your computer.
WINDOWS PCs
Simple Back-ups
For simple back-ups, go ahead and manually back-up all your own data. Just drag to
a dated folder on your back-up media all information that you want to save. We recommend
doing this once a week.
Or you can use a back-up utility program to do run back-ups for you. Sometimes these
take less time because they can do incremental back-ups. But they have to configured
and run properly so sometimes it's easier to do simple back-ups by hand.
To recover a file(s) or folder(s) from a back-up copy, in most cases you can simply
drag them from the back-up location to your main hard disk. If you used software
to make the back-up and it uses a special format in which to store back-ups, you'll
need to run the software to restore files / folders.
System Image Back-ups
To make a complete copy of everything (Windows, programs, personal data, etc.) on
your hard disk, create a System Image (a feature of Windows Backup). We recommend
doing this once a month to an external hard drive. Multiple System Images can be
stored on a single hard disk. And once the disk is full, Windows deletes the oldest
System Image.
When you restore from a System Image, it replaces whatever is on your computer with
all that is on the System Image.
Back-up Utility Programs
There are many back-up utilities available. Two good examples are the free, built-in
Windows Backup and the third-party Norton Ghost. Both can back-up
individual files and folders, or your whole hard drive, to many different types of
media..
For Windows computers, there are now well over 500,000 (some say over a million)
viruses, adware and spyware programs, Trojan horses, worms, keyloggers, and other
types for "malware" out there attacking them.
For Macintoshes (and other computers not running Windows) not too long ago, there
were very few viruses or spyware programs, and most were relatively rare. But there
is now a growing number of Mac viruses and malware, and a few are rather insideous.
So the day has come there's now a definite need for anti-virus software on Macs,
because of the Mac viruses and trojan horses out there, as well as cross-platform
viruses (that can attack via documents created with Microsoft Office products, such
as Word, Excel, and PowerPoint)
Many of today's viruses are now so widespread, and/or can do such serious damage,
that having up-to-date anti-virus software is an absolute must. Up-to-date
anti-virus software means that the version of the software is regularly upgraded
(to the latest version), as well as updated with the latest virus definition information.
At least for Windows users, anti-virus software is probably the most important program
you can have on your computer.
If you ever:
- insert a floppy disk, CD, DVD, Zip disk, Jaz disk, flash drive, external hard
drive, or any other removable device in your computer
- download software
- install software
- receive email
- view Web sites
- share files and/or access rights with another computer
- use any type of network
(which is basically everyone) your computer is vulnerable to viruses. Fortunately,
the solution is simple and relatively inexpensive prevent the viruses from infecting
your system in the first place by installing and regularly updating the best anti-virus
software you can find.
The better anti-virus software will automatically scan your computer as well as your
computer activity looking for viruses and/or virus-like behavior.
New viruses are created often, so it is imperative that your anti-virus software
be updated regularly to counteract all new viruses. We recommend updating at least
once a week. The better anti-virus software will automatically update if you're connected
to the Internet, but it helps to update manually as well, just to be safe (and make
sure the updates are happening).
Users of any Microsoft products, such as: Windows, Microsoft email software, Microsoft
Internet Explorer, and Microsoft Office software (such as Word, Excel, and PowerPoint)
are infinitely more vulnerable to attack. Conversely, using non-Microsoft products
makes you much less vulnerable.
If your one who performs manual updates and scans with your anti-virus software,
after you have done an update you should immediately scan your entire computer for
viruses.
It is also very important to run anti-virus software before backing up your hard
disk. You sure don't want to backup a virus!
You should also regularly update your Internet software (Web browser, email program,
etc.), as the vendors of this software are constantly updating them to fix security
and virus problems, and other bugs. You also want to watch for and install updates
to your OS (operating system, like Windows or Mac OS) as they become available. (See
the Windows Update or Mac OS Software Update feature on your computer.) Updates to
other software like Adobe Reader, Flash Player, and Java should also be installed
when prompted.
These days, using a computer with Windows on the Internet exposes your computer to
the worst the computing world has to offer. According to Symantec, Windows users
can expect to be attacked in well under a minute once connected to the Internet.
Using an OS (operating system) like Linux or the Mac OS is infinitely safer. This
is mostly because those that write viruses and other "malware" target the
Windows operating system and other Microsoft software presumably because these products
are on a large portion of the world's computers .
When selected an antivirus program, you for sure want one that:
- regular and automatically updates itself
- regular and automatically scans the whole computer for spyware
- has resident real-time protection to stop viruses from installing
And if you have two or more antivirus programs, you want only one program with
real-time protection. Having two or more of these running at the same time can cause
a conflict. So any additional antivirus software should have the real-time protection
turned off (if it has that feature).
Preventative Measures:
Here are just a few of many preventative measures you should take to help avoid viruses
(and/or related problems):
- Windows users The vast majority of viruses are written specifically to take
advantage of Microsoft products: Windows, Internet Explorer, Outlook and Outlook
Express, Windows Live Mail Microsoft Office products (like Word and Excel), Visual
Basic, etc. Using alternative programs (such as Web browsers like Firefox, Safari,
Google Chrome, and email programs like Thunderbird or Eudora) may very likely help
avoid viruses specifically targeted for Microsoft programs.
- Mac users Some recent malware can masquerade as a Flash Player installer, see
a screen-shot
of that here. Do not download a Flash Player installer from any site other than
http://www.adobe.com. If your version of the Mac
OS does not include Flash Player but you wish/need to install this, visit Adobes
Web site. If an installer claiming to be a Flash Player installer appears, be
very careful to ensure that you did, indeed, download it from Adobes Web site. If
you did not just download Flash Player from Adobes web site, quit the installer
immediately.
- Macs users if you see this
specific certificate purporting to be signed by Apple as shown here, dont trust
it, and Cancel the process. (If you do not cancel, you will allow the installation
of malware!)
- All users of the Safari Web browser, in the programs General preferences, uncheck
'Open safe files after downloading.' This will prevent installer packages -- whether
real or malicious -- from launching automatically.
- Viruses can spread in many ways, such as visiting a Web site, via email (usually
as attachments), across networks, via external media like flash drives, DVDs, CDs,
hard drives, etc. Be sure your antivirus software has its "auto-protection"
feature on at all times, and that it's set to always scan external media. This is
becoming more of a problem with the popularity of flash drives, and how easily viruses
can be transmitted via these very convenient storage devices.
- See the Safe Computer and Online Practices and Safe Practices and Cautions When Using Email sections.
Many of the items there cover important issues regarding viruses.
- Turn off the off "Script" function of Microsoft Word and enable macro
virus protection in your Microsoft Office products like Word and Excel.
- Keep your software up-to-date. This includes the operation system (Mac OS and
Windows), Web browsers, email programs, Adobe Reader, Adobe FlashPlayer, Java, all
security software, Apple software, and other major software (especially that which
use the Internet). And in many cases, as new versions are released, you should upgrade
your software to the latest version that your system will allow.
- Visit Symantec Security Response for details
(including removal instructions) for any virus.
- Do not install software from untrusted sources, especially if that software comes
as an installer package and requests your administrator's password.
- Be on your toes and suspicious of any thing or behavior that does not feel quite
right.
- Read the Web page: How
Can I Avoid Being Infected with Badware?
MACs
Here are some anti-virus program choices for Macs:
- Free Mac Antivirus Software:
- Commercial Mac Antivirus Software
- Known FAKE (rogue) antivirus programs BAD software you should NEVER install:
- MacDefender, MacGuard, MacProtector, and MacSecurity. (On the other hand, MacKeeper
from Zeobit IS a legit product, see above).
WINDOWS PCs
Here are some Windows anti-virus programs and other related items:
- Free online virus and threat scanners:
- Avast! Free Online Scanner - checks
only one file at a time
- BitDefender Free
Online Virus Scanner - lightning-fast virus and spyware detection tool, providing
an alternative to the time consuming traditional virus scanners.
- CA Online Threat Scanner
- requires Internet Explorer. Scans your computer for viruses and spyware and can
detect malware threats from within your web browser. You can use the scanner free
of charge. To use the scanner, you must install ActiveX when prompted.
- Dr.Web CureIt!
- free anti-virus and anti-spyware scanner and removal tool that os also effective
at removing rootkits.
- ESET Free Online Virus Scanner
- Detects both known and unknown forms of malware, such as viruses, worms, Trojans,
phishing and spyware.
- F-Secure
Health Check and Online Scanner - can help get rid of viruses and spyware that
may be causing problems on your PC. Online Scanner only requires the installation
of an add-on for your browser and works even if you have other security software
installed on your PC.
- Housecall - Free Online Virus and
Spyware Scanner - from Trend Micro. It can quickly identify and fix a wide range
of threats including viruses, worms, Trojans, and spyware. It is now faster, more
powerful and browser independent.
- Kaspersky Labs
- McAfee Free Security
Scan Plus - does no detect any malware, but it checks your computer for anti-virus
software, firewall protection, and Web security, and threats in your open applications.
(A program you download and install.)
- Microsoft Safety Scanner
- a free downloadable security tool that provides on-demand scanning and helps remove
viruses, spyware, and other malicious software. It works with your existing antivirus
software. (A program you download and install.)
- Norton Security Scan and Symantec Security
Check
- Norton Security Scan - Feel tool that will automatically scan your computer
every week, replacing the need for you to manually scan using Symantec Security Check.
(A program you download and install.)
- Symantec Security Check - Tests your exposure to a wide range of online
threats. It's free and efficient, and it helps you determine your Internet security
needs.
- Panda Active
Scan
- Virus Total - free online virus, malware
and URL scanner - a service that analyzes suspicious files and URLs and facilitates
the quick detection of viruses, worms, Trojans, and all kinds of malware detected
by antivirus engines.
- Free Windows Antivirus Software:
- Ad-Aware Free Antivirus
& Antispyware
- Avira Free Antivirus
- Avast! Free Antivirus
- AVG Free Antivirus - anti-vrus,
anti-malware, and anti-spyware a recommended product.
- BitDefender Free Edition
- Comodo Antivirus
(also called Comodo
Internet Security (free version)) - antivirus, anti-spyware, and anti-rootkit
protection.
- Kaspersky Virus
Removal Tool - a free program designed by Kaspersky Lab to help you remove malware
from an infected computer.
- Microsoft
Security Essentials - free "easy-to-use" antivirus software for home
and small business customers. Too weak on its own, but might be used to complement
other programs.
- Microsoft Windows
Malicious Software Removal Tool - checks your computer for infection by specific,
prevalent malicious software (including Blaster, Sasser, and Mydoom) and helps to
remove the infection if it is found. Microsoft will release an updated version of
this tool on the second Tuesday of each month.
- Norman Malware Cleaner
- detect and removes viruses, trojans, Rootkits, FakeAV, worms, other types of malware.
- Commercial Windows Antivirus Software
Much of today freeware, shareware, cookies, media players, interactive content,
and file sharing may contain code that allows their authors to collect and spread
information about those using those items. Known as spyware, it can track
your Internet using habits, share that data with a third party, hijack your browser
start page, alter important system files, and can do so without your knowledge or
permission. In fact, just Web browsing innocently, spyware can install itself
on your machine and do its dirty work
For Windows users, the number of threats in the adware / spyware / malware arena
seems to be growing much faster than for viruses. The need to anti-adware / anti-spyware
/ anti-malware software is now of very critical importance. Over a short period of
time, all Windows users can expect to acquire, without their knowledge, some form
of adware and / or spyware.
For Mac users at present, this issue is almost non-existent. But that may change
as Macs become more popular.
Learn more about it:
Be aware of any pop-up ad claiming you have LOTS of viruses on your computer and
then tries to sell you anti-virus, anti-adware, or anti-spyware software. Or, that
claims it is some form of anti-spyware it is very like adware/ spyware itself!
Here is a list of some known rogue anti-spyware:
- Rogue
anti-spyware programs - "Malicious programmers have released a large number
of rogue (fake) anti-spyware programs, and widely distributed Web banner ads now
spuriously warn users that their computers have been infected with spyware, directing
them to purchase programs which do not actually remove spywareor else, may add more
spyware of their own."
- Rogue Security
Software
- List of
Rogue Security Software
MACs
At this time, very few spyware programs are written for Macintosh. Nonetheless,
here are a few Mac anti-spyware programs and resources:
- Mac antispyware software
- Many of the antivirus programs for Mac listed above can
detect and remove spyware (some of these are listed below).
- Avast! Free Antivirus for Mac
- includes virus and spyware protection. Requires OS 10.6 or later and an Intel-based
Mac.
- BitDefender
Antivirus for Mac - includes virus and spyware protection
- F-Secure
Anti-Virus for Mac - includes virus and spyware protection
- Intego's VirusBarrier - includes
virus, spyware, and phishing protection as well as a two-way firewall - a recommended
product.
- Internet Cleanup ($30) - "Protect
your Mac from lurking surveillance applications seeking your private information.
Up-to-the-minute, enterprise-class detection capabilities stop prying keyloggers
and malware 24 hours a day, whether you're online or offline. Internet Cleanup safeguards
your critical data and keeps your personal information private."
- MacScan from SecureMac.com
($50, but a 30-day free trial version is available) - Requires Mac OS 10.8. "Protect
your security and privacy with MacScan, the premier Anti-Spyware program for Mac
OS X. Detect, isolate, and remove spyware as well as clean up Internet clutter. With
MacScans Blacklisted Cookie Scan you can remove blacklisted tracking cookies without
losing all your saved usernames and passwords."
- Malwarebytes Anti-malware
- Free. Requires Mac OS 10.8 and an Core 2 Duo CPU, or faster.
- McAfee VirusScan
for Mac - includes virus and spyware protection.
- Norton Anti-virus for the Mac from Symantec
- includes virus and spyware protection.
- Panda
Antivirus for Mac - includes virus and spyware protection.
- ProtectMac AntiVirus - includes virus
and spyware protection.
- Trend
Micro Smart Surfing for Mac two-way firewall, antivirus, anti-spyware, anti-rootkit,
Web threat protection, and more.
- Other malware resources (from Apple)
WINDOWS PCs
Most Antivirus Software and Internet
Security Suites are adding anti-spyware to their feature set. So if you have
a recent antivirus program or Internet security suite, it's likely you have some
anti-spyware capability in your arsenal. Like antivirus software, you for sure want
one program with anti-spyware capability that:
- regular and automatically updates itself
- regular and automatically scans the whole computer for spyware
- has resident real-time protection to stop spyware from installing
But also like antivirus software, you want only one program with real-time protection.
Having two or more of these running at the same time can cause a conflict. So any
additional anti-spyware should have the real-time protection turned off (if it has
that feature).
Anti-spyware programs are continually evolving in features and effectiveness. For
a while one program will shine, then fall behind a new version of it's competitor.
So it's difficult at any time to say which program is the best. And it's not the
function of this page to rate the software -- there are plenty of other places that
do that on a regular basis.
Offered below is a list of stand-alone anti-spyware (or antivirus & antispyware)
programs. They can be used as your primary anti-spyware solution if you do not have
one already, and if they meet the three requirements mentioned above. Or they can
be used as secondary anti-spyware programs, again as long as their real-time protection
turned off (if it has that feature).
Using anti-spyware programs
It's highly recommended to have several anti-spyware programs, as no one program
is 100% effective. Update and scan with any anti-spyware software you have at
least twice a month, and more often if you are a heavy Internet user and/or experiencing
any issues.. Some experts say if a given anti-spyware program finds an issue, to
run it again, restart your computer, and run the program a third time to be sure
everything that needs to is removed. You can also (or may need to) run these programs
again while in Safe Mode to be completely thorough.
After running your arsenal of anti-spyware, it's recommend to run a good Registry
repair program, see our Rebuild Windows Registry section.
(The Windows Registry stores core information about all the software on your hard
disk. Spyware modifies the Registry, as does anti-spyware when it removes the spyware.
Cleaning the Registry is a good thing to do regularly, anyway.)
Stand-alone antispyware programs
- Free Windows antispyware software
- Ad-Aware Free Antivirus
& Antispyware
- AdBlock - not an antispyware program, but
this software block ads that may lead to attracting spyware. This is browser extension
available for Chrome, Firefox, and Safari. Block all advertisements on all Web pages,
even Facebook, Youtube, and Hulu. Browse faster, too! Most ads aren't even downloaded
at all, saving you time and bandwidth.
- AdwCleaner
searches for and deletes Adware, Toolbars, Potentially Unwanted Programs (PUP),
and browser Hijackers from your computer. By using AdwCleaner you can easily remove
many of these types of programs for a better user experience on your computer and
while browsing the Web. AdwCleaner
Usage Instructions. This software is now owned by Malwarebytes and is available
here at therir Web site, as well.
- AVG Free Antivirus - anti-vrus,
anti-malware, and anti-spyware - a recommended product.
- Comodo Antivirus
(also called Comodo
Internet Security (free version)) - antivirus, anti-spyware, and anti-rootkit
protection
- Malwarebytes
Anti-Malware Free a recommended product.
- Norman Malware Cleaner
- detect and removes viruses, trojans, Rootkits, FakeAV, worms, other types of malware.
- Norton Power Eraser: Site
#1, Site
#2 - a free tool that targets stubborn viruses and other malware files and forcibly
removes them. Because it cleans aggressively, it can delete critical system files,
so it must be used with care; expert guidance is recommended. Be sure to letting
the program create a System Restore Point before cleaning your system
- Panda Cloud Antivirus
- Spybot - Search
& Destroy
- SpyCatcher
Express from Tenebril
- SUPER Antispyware Free
- Windows Defender - this is now part of Action Center feature in Windows 7, a
streamlined place for keeping your PC running smoothly.
- Commercial Windows antispyware software
Other spyware removers / tools include:
- HijackThis - a free
utility which quickly scans your Windows computer to find settings that may have
been changed by spyware, malware or other unwanted programs. HijackThis creates a
report, or log file, with the results of the scan.
IMPORTANT: HijackThis does not determine what is good or bad. Do not make any
changes to your computer settings unless you are an expert computer user. Advanced
users can use HijackThis to remove unwanted settings or files. Not an expert? Just
save the HijackThis report and let a friend with more troubleshooting experience
take a look. A large community of users participates in online forums, where experts
help interpret HijackThis scan results to clean up infected computers. For answers
to some common questions see...
- Microsoft Windows
Malicious Software Removal Tool - checks your computer for infection by specific,
prevalent malicious software (including Blaster, Sasser, and Mydoom) and helps to
remove the infection if it is found. Microsoft will release an updated version of
this tool on the second Tuesday of each month.
- SpywareBlaster
(Free) - Prevent the installation of spyware and other potentially unwanted software.
- X-RayPc Spyware Analyzer
- an interactive tool used to examine a users Windows environment and investigate
and correct system malfunctions. This tool is designed for advanced users, spyware
researchers, and system administrators.
- See also the Spyware
Removal page at Tucows
Free online spyware scanners:
- BitDefender Free
Online Virus Scanner - lightning-fast virus and spyware detection tool, providing
an alternative to the time consuming traditional virus scanners.
- CA Online Threat Scanner
- requires Internet Explorer. Scans your computer for viruses and spyware and can
detect malware threats from within your web browser. You can use the scanner free
of charge. To use the scanner, you must install ActiveX when prompted.
- Dr.Web CureIt!
- free anti-virus and anti-spyware scanner and removal tool that os also effective
at removing rootkits.
- ESET Free Online Virus Scanner
- Detects both known and unknown forms of malware, such as viruses, worms, Trojans,
phishing and spyware.
- ExactSEEK Free Spyware
Scanner
- F-Secure
Health Check and Online Scanner - can help get rid of viruses and spyware that
may be causing problems on your PC. Online Scanner only requires the installation
of an add-on for your browser and works even if you have other security software
installed on your PC.
- Housecall - Free Online Virus and
Spyware Scanner - from Trend Micro. It can quickly identify and fix a wide range
of threats including viruses, worms, Trojans, and spyware. It is now faster, more
powerful and browser independent.
- Microsoft Safety Scanner
- a free downloadable security tool that provides on-demand scanning and helps remove
viruses, spyware, and other malicious software. It works with your existing antivirus
software. (A program you download and install.)
- Norton Security Scan and Symantec Security
Check
- Norton Security Scan - Feel tool that will automatically scan your computer
every week, replacing the need for you to manually scan using Symantec Security Check.
(A program you download and install.)
- Symantec Security Check - Tests your exposure to a wide range of online
threats. It's free and efficient, and it helps you determine your Internet security
needs.
- Panda Active
Scan from Panda Software
- Tenebril's free,
online spyware scanner
- Virus Total - free online virus, malware
and URL scanner - a service that analyzes suspicious files and URLs and facilitates
the quick detection of viruses, worms, Trojans, and all kinds of malware detected
by antivirus engines.
General spyware related sites:
- Bleeping Computer - A community
devoted to providing free original content, consisting of computer help and tutorials,
in such a way that the beginning computer user can understand. Getting started using
our community is extremely easy.
- Gladiator Security Forum - Help
with spyware, virus, firewall, and security issues. Here you can get help with your
HiJackThis logs, but there are certain tasks to perform and instructions to be read
before posting your log.
- Internet Security Center - Computer
Security Tips & Advice from Webroot
- Malware Tips - This forum is a free community
in which you can to find answers to your Computer Help, Security Talk, and Technical
Support questions.
- Microsoft Safety & Security Center
- Spychecker.com - Links to spyware removal
and Internet privacy tools.
- Spyware - defined and explained
at Wikipedia
- Spyware and Adware Articles
- Insight and Helpful Articles - from PC Tools
- Spyware
Removal page at Tucows
- Spyware Guide List
of Spyware - the largest searchable database of known spyware, malware, and adware.
Rootkit Removers:
Among the most difficult of all "malware" to detect and remove are rootkits.
From the AVG Web site:
"A rootkit is an application (or set of applications) that hides its presence
or presence of another application (virus, spyware, etc.) on the computer and uses
some of the lower layers of the operating system (API function redirection, using
of undocumented OS functions, etc.) which makes them almost undetectable by common
anti-malware software.
Please note that rootkits can be either correct or malicious. Correct
rootkits may be installed as a part of legitimate application. Because of that, it
is necessary to pay close attention to the any anti-rootkit results.
Rootkits can get to a computer using various ways. The most common way is through
some Trojan horse or some suspicious e-mail attachment. Also surfing the Web may
result in installation of a rootkit, for example when "special" plug-in
(pretending to be legitimate) is needed to correctly view some Web page, to launch
some file, etc."
From the Panda Web site:
"Rootkits are programs designed to hide processes, files or Windows Registry
entries. This type of software is used by hackers to hide their tracks or to insert
threats surreptitiously on compromised computers. There are types of malware that
use rootkits to hide themselves on a computer. Rootkits use sophisticated techniques
to avoid being detected by antivirus solutions."
Sometimes the only symptoms you will get from rootkits is an increase in network
traffic, or a decrease in performance, and maybe an unknown process running. Most
of the anti-virus vendors have integrated anti-rootkit technology into their more
recent products, so make sure your anti-virus software has anti-rootkit capabilities.
From the Gizmos
Freeware Reviews Web site:
"When your computer gets a virus, that virus tries to spread, and eventually
it will damage the host making it much easier to detect. A rootkit on the other hand
is designed to hide certain elements such as files, processes, registry entries,
or network connections, from the user and other programs thus making it very difficult
to detect. This technology can be used for good as well as malicious purposes so
it is important to be familiar with your computer to avoid deleting these legitimate
objects. Within Windows rootkits are used to hide malware so that their execution
goes unnoticed by your security applications. So imagine that a rootkit has been
installed on your computer and that its purpose is to hide a virus, thus giving the
malware time to complete its goal, steal your data, and damage your system all the
while going undetected. Unfortunately, rootkits are extremely effective. at this,
which means that even though you may believe your PC to be totally clean, some of
you could be infected right now.
Most of the anti-virus vendors have integrated anti-rootkit technology into their
more recent products. However, this is not a fool proof solution against rootkits
because just as the anti-virus companies improve their products detection abilities,
so the malware creators find new ways to avoid detection. So as security conscious
users we must rely on third party tools to help us, and there are several free applications
which specialize in the detection and removal of rootkits. Keep in mind that none
of these products will detect every single problem, so it is always a good idea to
keep more than one of them to hand."
Below are some tools to help. There are a lot of anti-rootkit programs available,
some of them are covered in this article:
But much of this software is very advanced and is therefore recommend only to
those very experienced and technically-minded who are familiar with computers and
operating systems.
- Avast Anti-Rootkit (AKA
aswMBR) - a rootkit scanner that scans for TDL4/3, MBRoot (Sinowal), Whistler
and other rootkits. Detects most rootkits, easy to use.
- Dr.Web CureIt!
- free anti-virus and anti-spyware scanner and removal tool that is also effective
at removing rootkits.
- GMER (free) - detects and removes rootkits.
Considered class leading technology. Not suitable for average users.
- Kaspersky TDSSKiller
- Considered easy to use GUI, high detection rate, removed all infected files in
tests and is 64 bit compatible. Cons: Some False Positives, crashed a few times on
Windows 7 Ultimate.
- Malwarebytes
Anti-Malware Free a recommended product. Has a rootkit detecter option in the
settings.
- RootRepeal - Can remove
even the most advanced rootkits. Very advanced, not recommended for average users.
- Sophos
Anti-Rootkit Tool
Being connected to the Internet (a global network of vast array of smaller smaller
networks) allows the potential for others to access to your computer if it's not
properly protected. With today's new threats of "malware" worms, Trojans
horses, viruses, spyware, adware, keyloggers, rootkits, and so on and "always
on" high-speed Internet connections there is a great likelihood that those
will malicious intent will attempt to access your computer "without permission"
and all the information on it. They can potentially view, change, or delete any information
or software on your computer. They can also run any program of their choice on your
computer. Some hackers may not actually look at or disturb your data, but instead
use your computer (as well as thousands of others) to access other more major computers
on the Internet (such as those running Web sites) with malicious intent. And there
is not enough real security by Internet service providers or Internet content providers
to properly contain the many and constant threats out there on the Internet.
Implementing one or more forms of firewall is therefore essential for every Internet
user. A firewall allows you access the Internet, but attempts to disallow undesired
Internet activity to and from your computer essentially playing "traffic cop"
with all Internet traffic on your computer.
A Note about Hardware Firewalls
As mentioned in the 8/3/2004 issue of PC Magazine,
page 86, or see this
Web page, "even if you only have one computer connected to a broadband Internet
connection, you should deploy a router." This is because most routers today
protect your computer safely behind what's called a NAT Firewall, one for of hardware
firewall. And although now a bit old, this article provided many good router
configuration tips.
In addition to a hardware type of firewall, it is also recommended that
each and every Internet user install or maintain some form of software firewall
of their own.
The Home PC Firewall Guide is and excellent
firewall reference site. Here you can learn how to protect home computers from Internet
outlaws by using firewall software plus a wireless router with firewall features.
Also: details and links to reviews of many software and hardware solutions.
MACs
Turn on your Mac's built in firewall (Apple has this turned off by default). Below
are the basics, but see this site for more details: In
Mac OS X, how do I enable or disable the firewall?
OS 10.4, (Tiger) In the Sharing System Preference, select the Firewall
tab.
Click the Start button to turn on the firewall. This blocks all incoming connections.
OS 10.5 (Leopard) In the Security System Preference, select the Firewall
tab.
Click Start to enable the firewall.
Most people should choose "Set access for specific services and applications"
which will block most incoming connections, but allow you to make exceptions for
trusted services and applications.
OS 10.6 (Snow Leopard) In the Security System Preference, select the
Firewall tab.
Click Start to enable the firewall.
Choose "Automatically allow signed software to receive incoming connections"
to allow digitally signed applications access to your network without prompting.
OS 10.7 (Lion) In the Security & Privacy System Preference, select
the Firewall tab.
Click Start to enable the firewall.
Choose "Automatically allow signed software to receive incoming connections"
to allow digitally signed applications access to your network without prompting.
If you feel you need it, you can also install third-party personal firewall software,
which may do a more thorough job than Apple's built-in firewall. Most of today's
security suites include a firewall. And there are a few stand-alone
firewall programs available:
WINDOWS PCs
Since Windows XP, there has been firewall software built in to the operating system.
Here is how to turn on the built-in Windows firewall:
- In Windows XP
- Windows XP users have Internet Connection Firewall (ICF) software built in to
the operating system. To turn on ICF, open the the Network Connection control panel,
right click on the icon for your Internet connection, and select Properties from
the menu. Click on the Advanced tab. The very first item should be the Internet Connection
Firewall section with a checkbox that says, "Protect my computer and network..."
Be sure this checkbox is checked, then click OK.
- See also, "How can I turn
on or turn off the firewall in Windows XP Service Pack 2 or later versions?"
- In Windows Vista
- In the Start menu go to the Control Panel, then Security, and then click on Windows
Firewall.
- Click Turn Windows Firewall on or off. Administrator permission required If you
are prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type the password or
provide confirmation.
- Click On (recommended), and then click OK.
- In Windows 7
- In the Start menu go to the Control Panel, then click on Windows Firewall.
- In the left pane, click Turn Windows Firewall on or off.
- Click Turn on Windows Firewall under each network location that you want to help
protect, and then click OK.
Windows users who install an third-party firewall software should disable the
built-in Windows, as multiple software firewalls can cause conflicts. The firewall
software may do this for you.
It's also recommended that unless you absolutely need ti, to turn File Sharing
and Printer Sharing OFF, as this is yet another avenue through which those
with malicious intent can get around and access computers on a network.
Most of today's security suites include a firewall. And there
are a few stand-alone firewall programs available. I've not have perfect success
with standalone firewall programs, but perhaps you will. Nonetheless, as you
should do with any software you're not 100% sure about, be sure to create a restore
point before installing it, in the event anything does not work correctly after installing
the software.
Security suites are convenient, as they combine many of the essential security
aspects and features you need into one program. This usually includes: anti-virus,
anti-spyware, and a two-way firewall, and likely includes anti-spam, parental control,
privacy control and more. But note, some standalone programs may be much better at
specific types of protection.
MACs
Mac Internet security suites
WINDOWS PCs
Likely good first choices for Windows Internet security suites
Other choices more of the MANY Windows Internet Security suite products out
there:
Once upon a time, filtering junk mail was the duty of your Internet Provider,
but that is no longer the case. At one time, most junk mail was merely trying to
sell you soemthing. These days, however, the need for a good spam/junk mail filter
is now essential with the increase of messages containing viruses, malware,
phishing schemes, and links to poison Web sites of those with malicious intent attempting
to acquire critical information about you, such as your passwords, credit card numbers,
bank accounts, and identity-related details, or install viruses or malware. Spam
represents 70% of all email according to one 2014 report.
Fortunately, today's email software and Web-based email carriers (Gmail, Yahoo, etc.)
include some form of junk / spam filter, although they may vary in their effectiveness.
You'll often see or hear the nickname of "spam" for junk mail they are
effectively the same thing. Spam can apply to more that junk mail, however, here's
a complete description.
Be sure to see the Safe Practices and Cautions When Using
Email section for tips to help prevent bad, incorrect, hoax, junk, and virus
email in the future.
Train Your Junk/Spam Filter
The junk / spam filter's effectiveness greatly depends on you to train it what's
good and bad. The recommend procedure is:
Every time you check your mail:
- Look at your junk mail / spam for any GOOD mail. If you find any, teach your
filter that those messages are Not Junk / Not Spam. Then delete the rest of the junk
mail. (If this is done at least every day, it's easy because there will not be much
junk mail to look through.)
- Look for any junk mail in your normal mail (that not been filtered). If you find
any, teach your filter that those messages ARE Junk / Spam.
Over time as you do this, the effectiveness of the filter should greatly improve.
Junk/Spam Filter Software
With Web-based email (Gmail, Yahoo, etc..) you must rely on whatever junk/spam
mail filter they offer.
But for "on-board" email software like Windows Live Mail, Windows Mail,
Outlook, Apple Mail, Thunderbird, Eudora and the like, additional choices are available
beyond any built-in junk mail filter. One choice is an antispam feature that's often
found as part of a Security Suite. But there are also several
stand-alone anti-spam programs available that you install and run on your computer.
MACs
Some Macintosh spam filter programs are:
WINDOWS PCs
Some Windows spam filter programs are:
Even if you followed all of the recommendations on this page and everything on
the Computer Check-up page, there are many practices that
are up to YOU to follow to keep your computer, your data, and information about you,
safe. Listing them all would be impossible, and the list is continually growing.
In addition to all the recommnedations covered on this Web page, below are several
computer and online safety practices to get started.
General
- Be very aware of Computer-related Phone Scams,
and please tell everyone you know with a computer about these!
- Be suspicious of pop-ups, especially when on the Web. Look in the title bar of
the window is the icon or name of the program listed one you know and trust? There
are pop-ups these days that can be from rogue anti-virus or antispyware vendors,
claiming all sorts of things are wrong and you must obtain their product to fix things.
And the icon in the title bar can look very official, like a security shield. And
the name in the title bar can sound very official, like Windows XP Antivirus. With
these types of pop-up windows, don't click on any button in the window instead
close the window. Or if you have to, quit the program you're in likely your Web
browser. Also see Type 3 of the Computer-related
Phone Scams.
- Go to HaveIBeenPwned.com to see if
your email address has been involved in 120 known data breaches. If it has, change
your password for the compromised account, and anywhere else you used the same password.
Passwords
- CREATE GOOD PASSWORDS
- Maintain strong passwords that are at least 12 characters in length, and
contain upper and lower case characters, some numbers, and some special characters.
The more random and complex the better.
- Consider using a $ instead of an S, or a 1 instead of an L, or including an &
or % but note that $1ngle is NOT a good password. Password thieves are onto this.
But Mf$1avng (short for My friend Sam is a very nice guy) is a good password.
- In a password, never use common words, dictionary words, as theres software
that criminals use that can guess words used in dictionaries.
- Don't use words that are associated with you, your user ID or email address,
or your family, like a spouse's name, child's name, pet's name, birthdate, address,
etc. (In fact, any normal word is very easy to crack.)
- Create passwords that are easy to remember but hard for others to guess. Try
using a phrase such as I started 7th grade at Lincoln Middle School in 2004 and
use the initial of each word like this: Is7gaLMSi2004.
- MANAGE YOUR PASSWORDS
- Have unique passwords Dont use one password for multiple locations. Always
use a different password for each account, business, Web site, etc.
- Since you'll have many unique passwords, you'll need to write them down. Make
sure they are not a bunch of sticky notes on your monitor, but a proper notebook
with a clear record of each account, username, and password. Enter the date for each
password so you know when it was last changed.
- Store that notebook in a safe and secure location where no one (but you) can
find it.
- Consider using a password manager. These are programs or Web services that let
you create a different very strong password for each of your sites. But then you
only have to remember the one password to access the program or secure Web site that
stores your passwords for you. Note: some users do not like having ALL their passwords
controlled all at one place, however. Some popular choices are:
- 1Password - for Mac, Windows,
iPhone, iPad, and Android machines.
- Dashlane - for Mac and
Windows - free
- Lastpass - for Mac, Windows, Linux, and mobile
devices - free and paid versions
- RoboForm - for Windows only
- If possible, change all passwords once a year.
- Never share a password with anyone online, via email, via text, on a smartphone,
etc.
- It's best to never give out your password to anyone. Never give it to friends,
even if theyre really good friends. It's very likely no one else will not treat
it as securely as you would.
- If a company asks for your password, be VERY suspicious, as no legitimate company
should ask for your password.
- OTHER PASSWORD-RELATED TIPS
- Dont fall for phishing attacks. Be very careful before clicking on a link
(even if it appears to be from a legitimate site) asking you to log in, change your
password or provide any other personal information. It might be legit or it might
be a phishing scam where the information you enter goes to a hacker. When in doubt,
log on manually by typing what you know to be the sites URL into your browser window.
- See the Web page, "Take
Control of Your Passwords Overcome password frustration with Joe Kissell's expert
advice!" for more about passwords and how to get Joe's $10 ebook which offers
more details about password issues going on today and what to do about them.
- Some of these tips came from ConnectSafely.org
Software
- Never download or install software, or perform updates to software, from questionable
sources or untrusted Web sites.
- Never updates to software from questionable sources or untrusted Web sites. A
case in point a Web page says your FlashPlayer is out of date. That may or may
not be true. There are FAKE Flash Player installers out there in the wild, which
if used, will install malware on to your machine. Instead, always go to Adobe's
FlashPlayer Web page to get the latest Flash Player.
- Take the time to read the privacy policy of any site you use or software you
download. For software, the policy may mention that adware is be part of its download
package.
- Keep your software up-to-date. This includes the operation system (Mac OS and
Windows), Web browsers, email programs, Adobe Reader, Adobe FlashPlayer, Java, all
security software, Apple software, and other major software (especially that which
uses the Internet). And in many cases, as new versions are released, you should upgrade
your software to the latest version that your system will allow. And in software
that offers the automatic update feature, turn it on.
Email
- See the Safe Practices and Cautions When Using Email
section. Many of the most critical dangers are delivered direct to your Inbox. so
being aware of safe email practices is vital. There are so many issues here that
"email" required its own section.
Using the Web
- Be vigilant about maintaining the proper privacy and profile settings for all
online organizations through which you have an account, such as Facebook, Twitter,
Goole, Yahoo, and LinkedIn. Often the default settings are not safe enough,
or surrender too much information about you. Organizations change their privacy and
profile configurations regularly, so be sure to keep your settings up to date.
- Be extremely cautious with any and all social networking sites, such as Facebook,
Twitter, MySpace, etc.. These are a hotbed for all manner of malicious activity and
users with sinister motives. Those with malicious intent continually look for new
avenues to take advantage of the share-friendly environment and relative computer
"unsavvyness" of many of the users of these types of sites. Here a few
tips specific for Facebook:
- Do not use the "Like" feature as it shares all your data and
information AND that of all your friends with third party organizations, and you
have no control over what they do with it. Adware also spreads virally using the
"Like" feature.
- Games and other apps also surrender all your data and information
to third party organizations, and you have no control over what they do with it.
- Games and other apps, videos, media players, and
more are a popular distribution channel for adware, trackware, and other malicious
content.
- Don't trust the Trust E privacy seal of approval experts have found
Trust E seals on many sites of known adware distributors.
- Be extremely cautious when entering sensitive information (such as credit card
numbers, bank accounts, financial information, passwords, medical/health information,
and so on) at a Web site. Does the URL (Web address) for the site use the more secure
HTTPS, versus the non-secure HTTP? (Along with a HTTPS URL there will
be a lock icon somewhere in the browser's window.) Did you go there on your own,
or were you directed there by some junk mail or some other Web site you not entirely
certain about? Be on your guard. And make sure your "safe-browsing / link-checking"
tool (see below) says the site is OK.
- When browsing the Web, use the more secure HTTPS whenever possible, as
it encrypts the connection between your computer and the Web site being visited.
HTTPS by itself does not guarantee that a site is secure, but it can prevent others
from hacking the network and accessing your account. When you make a purchase or
logon on to a bank account you should expect to see a URL that start with HTTPS (and
if you do not, you likely should not use that site). But you should go one step further
and enable HTTPS in the account settings for Facebook, Twitter, Gmail, and other
social media and Web-based email sites.
- When making a purchase over the Web, if given the choice to use PayPal, choose
that versus paying the vendor "directly" with a credit card. Going through
PayPal adds an extra level of safety to the transaction.
- Also consider using a virtual credit card for making online purchases. Your normal
credit card will still be used, but hackers cannot gain access to the underlying
credit card information. Check with your bank or credit card issuer.
- Consider using two different Web browsers one for your online banking, credit
card management, and purchasing and another for everything else, but never for
banking or buying. Then if you get attacked by malware while in your "everything
else" browser, your banking, credit card, and online store accounts will not
be affected.
- There is an increasing number of malicious Web sites made to look legit and designed
to lure you in and steal your personal information. Some offer the ability to log
in to Facebook or other social media services via their site. To avoid offering up
your sensitive data to these sites, you should only log into Facebook or other social
media services either direct at the main page of the service, or through sites you
know you can trust. If a Web site looks sketchy, don't do it. Follow standard anti-phishing
practices, of course.
- Use a safe-browsing / link-checking tool from within your Web browsers. Besides
poisoned sites and search engine results, seemingly safe site can hacked and become
infected. Many of the better security programs now include such a tool. This type
of tool provides Web site ratings and reviews BEFORE you enter a site and at search
engines, allowing you to avoid potentially harmful sites before you visit them. Some
popular choices are:
- AVG Link Scanner - free and available
for Macs and Windows.
- McAfee SiteAdvisor - free and available
for Macs and Windows.
- Norton Safe Web Lite - free and
available for Windows only.
- Web Of Trust - free, available for Macs and
Windows, and for all major Web browsers. (You'll need to perform the download and
installation of this software from within each of Web browser you use.)
Portable Devices
- How well are you safeguarding your devices with sensitive and/or personal information
on them, such as laptops, netbooks, external hard drives, flash drives, tablets,
iPads, iPods, smart phones, cell phones, PDAs, etc.? Consider the ramifications in
the event they were stolen (or lost) and fell into the wrong hands. Is your laptop
password protected? Are your flash drives and external hard drives encrypted? Does
your smartphone have a PIN?
Built-in cameras
- Many devices now have a camera built-in: laptops, iMacs, all in ones, tablets,
smart-phones, etc. It's been shown that hackers, (such as school districts, the FBI,
and those with malicious intent) can access these cameras. The safest bet when
not using them, cover them with dark tape or a Post-It Note.
Public Computers
- When using a public computer, know that they can be infected with spyware and
other malware designed to track your movements online and harvest your passwords.
And if you do log into any type of account, be sure to log out, erase your history
and cookies, and quit the Web browser program as soon as you are done. It's best
to not use public computers to check your email, access your social network accounts,
conduct online banking, or log in to any Web site. In fact, use the Web browsers'
"private browsing" feature to prevent from storing your search results,
cookies, history, and cache from your browsing session. And do anything else the
location offers so no trace of your activity is available to the future users of
the computer you were on.
Wireless Networks / Routers
- CAUTION: February, 2018 A serious flaw was discovered in the WPA2 protocol,
which is the standard for securing wireless networks. The flaw allows hacker to steal
password, read emails, intercept bank details, and even insert ransomware into data
streaming across the network. No wireless network is safe until the routers involved
and the end devices (computer, tablets, phones, etc.) have been updated. Operating
systems for most mobile devices and computers were affected as well as non-Apple
routers. Apple has updated all of its operating systems. It's unknown about Andoid,
Linux, and Windows. Router manufacturers should be offering firmware updates to their
products. See the documentation that came with your router to do a firmware update.
Until you do the update, connect to your router with an Ethernet cable (bypassing
the wireless aspect).
- Public wireless network
- When on a public wireless network, know that all your traffic con be easily monitored!
So never do anything where you disclose sensitive information, such as online banking,
peronsal data, and medical information, and be extremely aware of any site you use
that requires a password or where personal information is shared, such as a Web-based
email site. In fact, like mentioned above for public computers, when using a public
wireless network, it's best to not check your email, access your social network accounts,
conduct online banking, or log on to any Web site.
- If you are at a public location where they offer computers hard-wired (via an
Ehternet cable) to their router and you need to do some sensitive work (such as logging
into any Web site), because of the current WPA2 protocol flaw (see CAUTION just above)
you may be safer for a while to use those computers than getting on their wireless
network with your own computer. See Public Computers above.
- Or use a VPN (virtual private network) so your data is encrypted before it's
transmitted to the Web site to which you are communicating.
- Your own home (or business) wireless network
- From the mauaul/documentation that came with the router (or the manufacturer's
Web site, or the www.RouterIPAddress.com
Web site), obtain the IP address and defatult user name and password to manually
access your router and change any of its settings. (This user name and password is
for the overall control of the router and all its settings.)
- Change the default user name and password to something
of your choosing (and be sure to write it down). For if someone malicious
gets on your wireless network, they can use the publicly known default values to
log into your router and change any of its settings themselves -- doing quite a lot
of damage. (If that actually happens, fortunately you can use the router's RESET
button to reset to the router back to the factory default settings.)
- Be sure the wireless network part of the router is secured with a password. Make
sure this password is NOTHING like any of your other passwords, as you will likely
be giving out it to friends and family that visit. Without a password, those with
sinister motives can eaily get on the netowrk and monitor all your wireless traffic,
and potentially access your router (if you did not change from the default settings)
and then more easily access data on any computer on the network. When setting up
a wireless password, be sure to use WPA or better yet WPA2 encryption it's faster
and more secure than its predecessors. Be sure to write down the password.
- Some folks recommended that you do not use the default SSID (name of the wireless
network) that the router provides. This is not essential, but if you do so, be for
sure you do not make it something personal, such as "Smith network"! This
tells the bad guys who you are.
- Although it's convenient to to have the SSID (name of your wireless network)
show up in the list of available networks when connecting with a wireless device,
the safest practice is to tell the router not to broadcast the name. Then you have
to enter the SSID for each device you connect. (But just once if you tell the device
to remember this network.) Don't make it easy to guess (such as "Smith network"),
but make it easy to remember and enter, such as "45cabin687". Be sure to
write it down along with the wireless password.
- If you are going out of town, turn your router off, just as another" layer
of protection" from those with malicious intent who might seek access via your
router to the Internet and/or your devices left at home.
Additional Resources
- In addition to the above, seek out other resources for further computer and online
safety practices, as there are many. Here are a few to get you started:
Many of the biggest dangers are delivered direct through email, so being aware
of safe email practices is vital. And please share these tips with others. If everyone
practices these, it will do a lot to prevent bad, incorrect, hoax, junk, and virus-laden
email in the future.
General
- Disable the email message preview pane in your email software. This prevents
the message from being opened and read upon merely clicking on it, thus preventing
a virus from running, or a Webbot identifying your address as real and thus sending
you more virus-laden or junk email.
- Be aware of "social engineering" and "phishing" threats.
A common one is email that attempts to steal your password. Never respond to unexpected
email that tries to scare or entice you into visiting a Web site that requires your
password or other personal or sensitive information.
- In fact, watch out for any email that has a link to a Web site. If the email
is from a bad guy, it could take you to an infected Web site. Never click on a link
unless you know the sender and you are sure they wrote it (and not some "bad
guy" who forged the sender's address or hacjed into the sender's email account).
If you are not sure if the sender actaully wrote them, contact the sender befoe proceeding.
- Watch out for any email that claims to be from a bank, PayPal, credit card company,
other financial institution, or shipping company, FBI, or IRS. Bad guys love to forge
this type of email. If the email says it's from PayPal, for example, do not click
on anything, but instead, go to your Web browser and enter the URL (www.PayPal.com)
yourself to be safe.
- Install A Junk Mail (Spam) Filter
Email Attachments
Many viruses that spread via email come in the form of attachments (files attached
to the email message), therefore...
- Be very suspicious of any mail from unknown senders containing attachments.
- Be suspicious of any unexpected email (with or without an attachment),
whether you know the sender or not.
- Be cautious with attachments even from people you know. 1. Their computer
may be infected and send you a virus. (Many of today's viruses automatically send
themselves out from a friend's computer to everyone in their address book or to any
email address mentioned in any email stored on their computer.) 2. Their email account
may have been hacked, and the bad guy is sending malicious email via that person's
account.
- If you have positively identified a virus that came via email and you know the
sender, contact them (reply via email is one way) to let them know they may very
well have a virus on their machine.
- NEVER open any attachment you are not 100% certain about who it's from
AND what it's about AND that you are expecting it. If uncertain, ask the sender if
they intended to send you that attachment.
- Ideally every email attachment should be saved to your computer first, then scanned
with up-to-date anti-virus software (that's true for downloaded software, as well).
Also, if you have any doubt about the attachment, do a search on the name of the
attachment at a search engine to see if it's part of a known virus.
- Do not open ANY attachment with a double extension, like information.doc.pif.
And be aware that Microsoft Explorer, Internet Explorer, Outlook and other software
may hide the second extension so "filename.jpg.exe" may appear as an ordinary
"filename.jpg" file.
- A virus needs executable code or a macro (like those used in Word and Excel documents)
to run. Therefore, some attachments are safe and others are not.
- Some attachments that are safe (as of this writing, and assuming a double filename
extension is not being used) JPG and GIF graphics files, and pure TXT (text) documents.
Be very cautious with any other type of attachmnet.
- Note that Windows executable files cannot be run on a Macintosh, making the Mac
a much safer computer to use.
- If your email program is set to automatically open or run attachments, turn that
feature OFF, NOW! You must be the one to decide to open or run attachments, not the
computer.
- Delete immediately all emails with attachments, without opening or reading them
if they have no, or an obviously false, sender addresses (like "Ha Ha Ha",
typical for the Snowwhite Virus).
- Verify the validity of any email you receive. This is true for anything you receive
in email, but especially true for virus warnings.
- A classic one is the so-called SULFNBK.EXE virus. It's a real file needed by
Windows, but there was an email going around saying it's a virus, and if you have
it, delete it. You don't want to do that!
- Mac users, see this article: Safety
tips for handling email attachments and content downloaded from the Internet.
About Web-based email and computer-based email, and don't forget to back up
your email and addresses / contacts, too
We've already covered how important is is to Back Up Your Data
/ Hard Disk on a regular basis. But do not forget to back up your email message
and contacts / address book as well. Often this contains information that is important
to you.
Web-based email
Many of you have Web-based email like Gmail, Yahoo, Hotmail, and so. And there
are many advantages to this type of email:
- You access your mail from a Web browser, and it can easily viewed from any computer
or device in the world that has Internet access.
- It's very convenient, no matter where you are or what device you are on, there
is all your email: received, sent, saved, etc., as well as all your contacts.
- It's free you just have to put up with ads all over the screen as "payment"
for the email account.
- You don't have to worry about updating any software, it's done for you at the
email Web site.
- This type of email system can be safer as mail and any attachments are stored
on some server somewhere, and not on your computer.
- Attachments have to be consciously downloaded to be viewed, and they (usually)
go through some form of anit-virus / anti-malware check before being downloaded.
And Web-based email has several disadvantages, too. Some of these are:
- You MUST have Internet access so see any of your email, or do anything with it,
even just reading it or organizing it. On a laptop but not at a Wireless hotspot?
Sorry, no email access for you. Yahoo email servers on the blink for a while? Sorry
no email.
- Often they are much more difficult to manage and organize email on accounts with
a lot of email in them. And the interface is more difficult to use.
- You are at the mercy of the email provider the interface, if the system is
available, if your account gets hacked (very common with the big free email providers),
if your email gets lost, and your email is more easily stored and monitored (by any
number of agencies).
- In February of 2011, 150,000 Gmail users had all of their email lost and their
accounts disable. Think about what that would mean to your life / business if that
happened!
Being at the mercy of the email provider is a big concner. "Usually"
all works fine, but when something goes wring, it quickly becomes a huge issue for
thousand of users.
So making a back-up of your Web based email is important, and a lot of extra work,
but imperative. Fortunately there is software that can help, such as:
Computer-based email
On the other hand, most standard POP3 email programs (such as Outlook, Windows
Live, Mail, and Thunderbird) can be configured to connect to Web-based email accounts.
Some advantages to PC-based email are:
- You are not at the mercy of the email provider every moment of every day to access
your email.
- Your email and addresses are stored on your computer, and you have access to
it anytime you like, even without Internet access.
- If the email provider has issues (lost email, hacked accounts, down),, most of
your mail and all of your contacts are still safely stored on your comaputer.
- It's often much easier too manage and organize email on accounts with a lot of
email in them. And the interface is much easier to use.
- The software is free and there are no ads!
- Backing up your email and contacts is much easier with PC-based email. How that's
done depends on your specific email software. Backing up contacts is usually no harder
(and often easier) than doing a simple export and saving that file with your back
up.
And PC-based email has a few disadvantages, some of these are:
- Most of your email is stored on your computer (using a POP3 set-up), so when
viewing mail on another computer from the Web-based system for your email account,
you only see new mail, not all your stored mail. This is not an issue for many who
do not travel much, and/or take their laptop with them when they travel.
- One may need to be slightly more cautious when opening attachments, and make
sure you have a good and up-to-date anti-virus and anti-spyware software (which you
should have on your computer, anyway).
- Updates are usually done by the user with easy prompts from the program.
So we do not recommend Web-based email, try to use PC-based email instead.
And don't forget to back up its data with your other regular back-up!
Do Not Unsubscribe
One should NEVER click on the Unsubscribe link at the bottom of spam email (unless
you knowingly signed up for a legitimate mailing list or email newsletter, and you
recognize the sender of the message.) Spammers (those that send junk email) are not
always honest and are very happy when you click on the Unsubscribe link because it
lets them know this is a real, live email address. They will very likely NOT stop
sending to that email address but, in fact, just the opposite they may send you
more. And they may sell the address to other spammers. So, clicking on an Unsubscribe
link may greatly increase the amount of junk mail one receives.
Two Email Accounts
Consider having two email accounts. Keep your main email address as a personal
one that you give out only to selected family, friends, and co-workers. Remind them
to never give out this address, and always use BCC when sending to more that one
person so the address is not shared with others. Then get a second email account
and use it for online ordering and any other time an email address is requested online.
Ideally, only the second account will get junk email. If that address becomes overwhelmed
with junk email, delete it, and get a new secondary account.
In Outlook Express:
- Do not archive mail in default Outlook Express folders, as they can eventually
become corrupt. Store saved mail in folders that you create.
- Keep folders you create under 100MB.
- Empty the Deleted Items folder regularly.
- Compact all folders regularly.
Cautions When Sending Email:
1. Verify Before Sending
Before sending out an email to others about something you were emailed claiming
to be true, PLEASE, PLEASE check it out on the Internet BEFORE sending these out.
Many emailings being passed around these days are hoaxes, urban legends, myths, rumors,
or have the facts wrong. (These can be claims about viruses, cancer, lost kids, Neiman
Marcus cookies... there are 1000's of them!)
I recommend going to Google and putting in a
few keywords from the emailing and the word: hoax You'll be surprised how many are
hoaxes, or have bad information in them. Other places to check include www.snopes.com
and urbanlegends.about.com.
If you find out something was a hoax, please respond to the person that sent you
the hoax and let them know, and remind them to tell all the people to which they
sent the original message.
2. Use BCC (Blind Carbon Copy) updated 4-19-2024
When sending email to a list of recipients, never use TO or CC, instead always
use BCC (blind carbon copy). This is true even if the recipients know each other
and especially true if anyone on the list does not want their email address shared
with the rest of the world (and forever) -- which you should assume is all of your
intended recipients.
Failing to use BCC incurs the following issues --
- Your email message will be used by viruses to send themselves to EVERYONE in
the email, and done so in the background by the virus, without the user's involvement.
You would feel terrible knowing that even though your computer has good anti-virus
protection, your message was the cause for the computers of many of your fiends,
family, and others you know to become infected. Viruses may also use any name and
address on the list to FORGE an email address in their mass mailings.
- Your email message will be used by junk emailers to harvest the email address
of EVERYONE in that email, thus allowing the spread of those addresses to junk emailers
worldwide, who often sell them to other junk emailers. And junk mailers may also
use any name and address on the list to FORGE an email address in their mass mailings.
- Everyone that sees that email can also see everyone else's email address. Not
using BCC greatly violates the privacy of all the recipients. Over the years, I've
seen MANY email addresses I probably was not supposed to or others that did not want
their address shared this way.
- If the list is large, if forces your recipients to scroll through sometimes many
screens of email addresses before they finally get to the main message of the email.
And since these messages tend to get passed around a lot, that list can become very,
very long.
- If the message is replied to, many email systems, such as those on mobile devices,
automatically do a REPLY ALL back to all recipients. Often that's not intended, only
a reply to the original sender was desired. This is bad enough, but if the sender
replies to that, now a "conversation" is started that's only intended to
be between two people, but it winds out going out to the entire recipient list, each
time. Very annoying. (Some folks should learn how to do a REPLY vs. REPLY ALL.)
- If the message is forwarded on to any others, ALL those others now also know
the email addresses of all your recipients. And if the message is forwarded a lot,
your recipients' addresses can quickly be shared with perhaps thousands of people!
And that can go on forever as the message gets passed around over and over again.
This also GREATLY improves the ability of a virus to spread, and the likelihood
that junk emailers will find all these addresses.
(Junk email and viruses send their email often forging it to be from addressees of
real people. Email that does not BCC in a vital source of addresses for them.)
This is yet another reason why when you forward a message, it's imperative that you
remove ALL the previous recipients. If the message is worth sending, it's worth cleaning
up. If you're not going to clean up a message, please do not send it.
If you do not know how to use BCC in your email program, please find out how
consult the email program's manual or help system, or Web site, do a Google search,
ask other computer users, friends, family members, teachers, coworkesr, computer
techs, even any "kid" who knows how to use a computer, etc..
3. Remove email addresses when forwarding
For the same reasons as using BCC, when forwarding mail, be sure to strip out
all the previous email addresses. If you cannot do this, or do not now how, copy
the part of the forwarded message you want to send, and paste it into a new email
message.
Do your best to clean up poorly formatted message. If a message is worth sending
and sharing with others, it's worth cleaning up.
4. Use plain text formatting
Due to the growing number of email filters that are rejecting email based on the
HTML content due to the possibility of a virus embedded in the code or being spam
(junk mail) it's recommended that you not use any HTML formatting in your messages.
Instead, switch to plain text messages. And this will help ensure all recipients
will be able to receive and read your mail.
5. Do not sign email petitions
Email petition states a position and asks you to add your
name and address and to forward it on to many people. This type of ail can collect
thousands of names and email addresses. A FACT: The completed petition is actually
worth money to professional spammers because of the large number of valid names and
email addresses.
DO NOT put your email address on any petition. If you want to support the
petition, send it as your own personal letter to the intended recipient. Your position
may carry more weight as a personal letter than a laundry list of names and email
address on a petition.
6. Be courteous to your recipients
Do your best to clean up poorly formatted message. If a message is worth sending
and sharing with others, it's worth cleaning up. Remove any
extraneous content, and send only the pertinent part of the message.
Be aware of if your recipients have a high or low speed Internet connection can
they (or do they want to) receive emails with large attachments?
If sending a video, see if you can send just the Web address (like from YouTube)
instead of sending the huge video file. Go to www.YouTube.com and enter a few keywords, like the subject of the video, or the
type of video (Norwegian airline ad, for example) to see if it's there. Also, try
searching for it at Google. Popular videos will be "all over" the Web.
For emails that you want to forward that contain many popular photographs, also search
Google (or other good search engine) to see if you can find a Web page with the photos.
Then send just the Web page address, not the photos themselves.
7. Treat all email as confidential.
Since the birth of email, one rule became clear "never say what your mother
would not be proud of!" Because you never know what your recipients will do
with the message and it could be passed on to anyone, forever! (Not to mention
that your email is stored somewhere, perhaps several places, and can be reviewed
at any time by many different types of people.)
Some companies and organizations use Confidentiality Notices in all their email messages,
such as:
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic message is intended to be viewed only
by the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. It may contain information that
is personal, privileged, confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable
law. Any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly
prohibited without our prior permission.
All email users should assume that notice is on EVERY email message they receive.
This will make sure senders of email will:
- Stop before forwarding anything that someone else said. Most things people say
in email they did not intend or expect to get forwarded. They intended the message
for the initial recipients' ears only.
- Obtain permission from the author before sending anything that someone else said.
This applies to all email, business and personal.
Many folks ask, should I turn my computer off or leave it on all the time? The
answer depends on where and how it's used.
Home users
- Turn your computer OFF while away from it overnight or longer.
- When away from the computer for a few hours or less, put the computer in SLEEP
mode.
- Do not use a screen saver.
If for some reason you choose to not to follow the advice above but instead leave
your computer ON, you MUST do the following:
- When you are away from the computer for a few hours or overnight, put the computer
in SLEEP mode.
- Do not use a screen saver.
- Do a RESTART at least once a week.
- Turn your computer OFF while away for more than a few days.
At work and/or part of a non-home network
Talk to your IT folks / system administrator for the best answer.
- It may be your computer needs to be left ON most of the time so it can be backed
up or other maintenance performed overnight or over the weekend.
- When you are away from the computer, put it in SLEEP mode.
- Do not use a screen saver.
- If your computer does not need to be left on, turn it OFF while out of the office
overnight or longer.
- Otherwise, any time you are away from the computer, put it in SLEEP mode.
- Do RESTART at least once a week.
A Note About Turning Your Computer Off
If you do not have a modem/router that needs to be on all the time to provide
Internet access for other devices in your home, then plug your computer, monitor,
printer, modem, router into a UPS, surge protector, or power strip. Then when you
turn off the computer, also turn off the UPS, surge protector, or power strip as
well. Why:
- Some peripherals, such as modems especially DSL and cable modems draw power
even if the computer is not using them.
- If these devices are all OFF during a power outage, voltage spike or dip, or
other power transient, it's MUCH safer to them then if they are left running.
- Should you need to unplug power to the devise in the event of lightning, it's
much easier then just unplug the UPS, surge protector, or power strip.
Ventilation
"By the way, one thing that impacts your computer's lifespan more
than power cycling is ventilation. Make sure that your computer has good airflow
through and around it, and make sure that dust doesn't accumulate on or it or in
it. Excessive heat is more of a danger than the number of times you turn the computer
off and on." (From: this
site.)
Some of the reasons behind the recommendations
- Screen savers consume more electricity displaying graphics and moving images,
and they can impede power-saving modes.
- SLEEP or "energy-saver" modes turn off the monitor (so no screen saver
is needed), but your computer will not have to be restarted.
- SLEEP mode uses a lot less energy, and your computer can still download and install
updates and perform other routine maintenance tasks. Note that some computers do
not wake up well from a long time in SLEEP mode.
- Heat damages electronics over time. The CPU chip can get quite hot when the computer
is running, and when you turn the machine off the CPU gets a chance to cool back
down.
- And although expansion and contraction from the heating / cooling may stress
components, the effect is minimal, hardware is very reliable, and worse is the heat
seen by components, as heat damages electronics over time. Also, devices are built
for power cycle fairly frequently. And in almost all cases, the devices last longer
than we need them.
- The amount of energy used to start a computer versus what's used when running
(albeit in Sleep mode) overnight or over the weekend is not an issue.
- You're saving money from the electricity not being used if the computer (and
other equipment) is OFF, estimated to be $100 to $200 per year!
- If the computer is OFF during a power outage, voltage spike or dip, or other
power transient, it's MUCH safer then if it's left running.
- A RESTART provides many advantages as it clears and cleans many things on the
computer.
- A Shutdown allows for updates to occur, and like a RESTART, the Shutdown/Startup
process offers advantages, clearing and cleaning many things on the computer.
A few quotes:
Hardware is very reliable software is a whole different story, and there is
a lot to be said for rebooting every day. (From this
site.)
"Excessive heat is more of a danger than the number of times you turn the computer
off and on." (From: this
site.)
The devices are, themselves, built for, and choosing to, power cycle fairly frequently.
And in almost all cases, the devices are lasting longer than we need them. (From:
this site.)
If you ever have power outages where you live, or have electrical voltage dips,
brownouts, spikes, surges, and/or any other type of transients in your electric service
and I don't know anyone that doesn't I highly recommend purchasing a UPS (Uninterruptable
Power Supply). also called a battery backup. These use a battery to provide power
for a few minutes (usually 5 to 20 depending on the UPS and equipment connected to
it) which is more than enough time for you to realize there's a power outage, save
all your work, and properly shutdown your computer and other equipment. UPSs also
have built-in surge protection.
Most computer equipment cannot handle much of a change in voltage, they merely shut
off. And none can handle a power outage. When one occurs, all unsaved work is LOST
FOREVER, and your equipment can be damaged. Power outages also often have power spikes
that occur with them, adding to the potential for damage. And if you happen to be
writing to the hard disk during that time, it could spell big problems with access
to your hard disk. It's possible that the file catalog and/or hard disk driver can
become corrupt if a power outage occurs when the hard disk is being written to.
This helps point out the need for maintaining regular backups
of at least your most critical data, and having good disk
repair software avaialble.
UPSs are very reasonably priced, and start at around $40. Good ones are typically
from APC, CyberPower,
Tripp Lite. UPSs often come with an equipment
coverage policy, in case it's the fault of the UPS for damage to your equipment (if
it was properly connected to the UPS).
If you do not have this feature already in your surge
protector, consider a UPS with surge protection for your phone line, DSL phone
line, cable TV and cable Internet lines, and satellite cables.
Buy one that has jacks for a phone line, too to help protect the modem, and all
the equipment attached to it.
Also see Protect Your Modem and Router below.
WARNING Regardless of any electrical protection you have, in the event of lightning,
there is only ONE sure solution, and that is to Unplug Equipment
for Lightning Protection.
If you don't Use a UPS, at the bare minimum, get the best surge
protector available (such as those from Tripp
Lite and APC). These cost a bit more (perhaps
$50), but are real protectors, not like "dime-store" variety power
strips that claim some suppression. Better protectors also offer an equipment coverage
policy in case it's their fault your equipment is damaged.
Phone Line Be sure to buy a surge protector that has jacks for a phone line, too
to help protect any of the equipment attached to the phone line, such as phones,
FAX machines, answering machines, DSL modems (and therefore your computer), etc..
Damage through phone lines is just as likely as through electric power lines, and
some experts claim is more likely.
DSL Line If you have DSL (high-speed Internet through the phone line), run the
phone line through a surge protector, then go through a DSL splitter to your DSL
equipment and phone equipment. (But if you notice a large change in DSL speed after
running your phone line through a surge protector, it may be adding unwanted noise
on the line. See if removing the surge protector from the picture fixes that.)
Coax Cable If you use cable or satellite Internet service, buy a surge protector
that includes protection for coax cable.
Ethernet Cable Some better surge protectors include protection for Ethernet
cable, commonly used with DSL, cable, and satellite modems to connect to your computer.
But this puts the protection downstream from your modem and does not protect the
modem. It's not as good as protection upstream (before) the modem (as mentioned above,
by running your DSL phone line, or cable or satellite Internet service coax cable
through the surge protector).
This page should be helpful: Tripp
Lite's Surge Protector Buying Guide
If you want to go "whole hog," consider buying a surge protector for
your whole house (available from your power company, local electrician, even
Amazon). These are installed in or near the electric service box, cover all
your appliances and electronics, and carry an equipment coverage policy in case the
protector fails or a surge occurs that's too strong for it to handle. Two that were
recommneded to me are the Homeline
SurgeBreaker (takes two slots in you box) and the Home
Electronics Protective Device (mounts outside of the service box). Check with
your power company or local electrician for the best advice.
Also see Protect Your Modem and Router below.
Some notes about surge protectors:
- Do not buy a surge protection product if it doesn't carry a UL 1449 rating
(330 volts at 500 amperes) for power circuits.
- If you will be connecting phone lines and coax cables, do not buy the surge protector
if it doesn't carry the UL 497A rating (200 volts clamping) for communication
circuits.
- Clamping voltage, also known as the let-through voltage, is the spike voltage
that will cause the protective components inside a surge protector to divert unwanted
energy from the protected line.A lower clamping voltage indicates better protection.
Look for a clamping voltage of 330V for the best protection.
- The joule rating of a surge protector is important but can be misleading. A surge
protector with a rating of 3000 joules is commonly recommended.
- See Surge Protector at
Wikipedia for more details.
WARNING Surge protectors DO NOT protect against surges any stronger that
what they are rated for, such as LIGHTNING, especially a direct strike at your home
or office, or nearby. Therefore, regardless of any electrical protection you have,
in the event of lightning, there is only ONE sure solution Unplug
All Equipment for Lightning Protection.
Modems (built-in or external, dial-up, cable, DSL, satellite) and routers, (and
combination modem/routers, sometimes called gateways) are very sensitive to electrical
fluctuations such as spikes, surges, voltage dips, and brownouts (not to mention
lightning strikes!). If you are not using a UPS or line conditioner,
and even if they are plugged into a surge protector,
it's ideal if you can keep your modem and router off and unplugged (both power and
phone line/coax cable) when not in use to ensure they are not disturbed by any
electrical oddities. Of course, this is not possible with a built-in modem, and can
be inconvenient for a cable, DSL, or satellite modem if they have no on-off switch,
and if the Internet is used by many people and/or for many devices.
Nonetheless, it's very important for the safely of your equipment, that if conditions
are such that electrically odd behavior may occur such as heavy wind, rain, ice,
snow, or stormy conditions, or peak times in the summer or you are already experiencing
your lights dimming and/or brightening, or other electrical odd behavior, that you:
- turn off your external modem and router (if you have any of these).
- turn off, shutdown, and unplug the power to your computer and any other electrical
equipment you want to protect,
- unplug any phone line, cable TV line, or satellite cable coming to your computer,
modem, and other equipment you want to protect.
WARNING Regardless of any electrical protection you may (such as a UPS,
line conditioner, or surge protector), you should always Unplug
All Equipment for Lightning Protection, as covered below.
The makers of the better surge protectors (like
TrippLite
and APC ) offer some models that claim to handle
lightning strikes and have an equipment coverage policy if it's their fault for any
damage. However, these very likely will not be able to handle all cases of lightning
strikes, especially direct strikes to your home or business.
And assuming you can prove it was the fault of the surge protector, you still
have a fried computer and other equipment. Do you really want to go through the many
hassles involved of buying new equipment and setting it up, and trying to restore
and/or reinstall all your software and all your data (assuming you even have a recent
back up)? A much simpler and cheaper "insurance policy" is available...
All you need do is unplug a few things any time you are aware that lightning is occurring,
about or likely to occur, and when you leave your home or business for very long:
- Depending on the type of Internet connection you have, unplug the phone line,
cable TV line, or satellite line coming INTO your modem or computer. Lightning can
easily come through the phone line, cable TV line, or satellite line and "fry"
your modem and anything connected to it (computer, monitor, router, printer, scanner,
phone, FAX machine, etc..).
- Unplug the power to any and all computer equipment: tower, monitor, printer,
scanner, external hard drive, modem, router, speakers, etc.. (It's a good idea to
unplug your TV and stereo equipment as well.) If your equipment is all running through
a surge protector (very highly recommended), then you only have to unplug that one
thing from the wall.
- Reminder: Did you unplug the power and phone line or coax to your modem? They
are VERY sensitive to electrical fluctuations and oddities, and lightning eats them
alive. See Protect Your Modem and Router.
Make it convenient, or you won't do it. Set up so you only need to unplug one
or two plugs to cover all the electrical connections to your whole computer system,
and one phone line, cable TV line, or satellite line. Make unplugging a regular habit.
You will be glad you did should anything nasty ever happen.
MACs
Macintosh computers do not require much regular maintenance, but one thing that
does help to do about once a month is to Repair Disk Permissions. This applies to
Mac OS 10.0 (Cheetah) through 10.10 (Yosemite).
To repair the disk permissions:
- Quit all programs.
- Run the Disk Utility program (found in Applications/Utilities)
- In the First Aid section of the window, click the Repair Disk Permissions button.
- Run this two or three times in a row.
- Quit the Disk Utility program.
NOTE: With 10.11 (El Capitan), repairing the disk permissions is, for the
most part, no longer needed, because of the new System Integrity Protection (SIP)
feature. (By preventing write access to system directories, the system file and directory
permissions are maintained automatically during Apple software updates, and the Repair
Disk Permissions feautire is not even available in the Disk Utility program.)
WINDOWS PCs
As you use your computer and add and delete software (and as malware infects and
is removed from your computer), you'll likely notice your computer slowing down.
One reason for this is because the Windows Registry, which stores core information
and instructions about all the software on your hard disk) can become somewhat corrupted
or filled with old/unneeded information. So keeping your computer free of any unneeded
software (see Remove Unneeded Software) and regularly
cleaning the Registry can help improve your computer's speed and/or help it run more
efficiently.
Clean the Windows Registry
To clean the registry, it is recommended to repair it with a good and trusted registry
repair program. (There are many registry repair programs out there that should not
be trusted.)
It's essential that you backup the registry before using a registry cleaner. For
most users the easiest way to do this is to create a system Restore Point (see Create Restore Points), which you should be creating regularly,
anyway. (Even better is to use a drive-imaging program to create a snapshot "image"
of Windows, which you can use for system recovery if needed.) Fortunately, many registry
cleaners offer a way to back-up the registry before making any repairs.
A few of many Windows registry cleaners:
Completely Rebuild the Windows Registry.
As mentioned, the registry stores core information about all the software on your
hard disk and can become corrupted or filled with a lot of unneeded information.
If it's damaged badly enough, the best (and perhaps only) way to fix it is to completely
rebuild the registry is with a "fresh" installation of Windows. This involves
completely erasing your hard disk and reinstalling EVERYTHING, a BIG job! The basic
steps are:
- back up your entire hard disk
- record all the software installed and all the settings
- completely reformat the hard disk
- reinstall Windows and all drives for all hardware
- reinstall all software applications
- restore all data from the backup
- reestablish all settings in all program.
This rewrites all the disk catalog and registry information, and removes all unneeded
files left over from programs no longer on the computer. This clears a lot of problems
and speeds up the computer. However, this is a big operation, and should be only
done if recommended by a computer technician or other expert. And it
should only be done or assisted by an expert.
A very important part of maintaining your computer is regularly running a good
disk repair utility.
It's recommended to run this software once a week, and more often if you have issues
like a computer that crashes a lot. Ideally it should be run after any type of a
software crash (where the software would not stop nicely on its own when requested).
If this is not done, after a while, problems can develop that cause additional crashing
of the computer software, render your hard disk unreadable or unrecognizable, keep
your computer from starting up properly, and/or other strange behavior. Critical
information on the hard disk can become so "corrupted" that the entire
disk will need to erased and reformatted.
MACs
Macs come with Disk Utility (in Applications/Utilities folder and it's also on
your System Install disk.
Quit all programs. Run Disk Utility,
- For Mac OS 10.0 (Cheetah) through 10.10 (Yosemite):
- In the left column, clcik on the name of your internal hard disk, usually Macintosh
HD
- Click on the First Aid button
- Click on Verify Disk If it says your disk "appears to be OK" you're
done. But if it says there are problems or repairs are needed, you will need to start
up your Mac from your System Install disk and select Disk Utility from tine Installer
menu and perform Repair Disk.
- Repair Disk Permissions While you're here, if
you have not done this lately, click on this button now and run this two or three
times in a row. Doing this once a month is recommended.
- For 10.11 (El Capitan):
- In the left column, click on the name of your internal hard disk, usually Macintosh
HD
- Click on the First Aid button. Note: unlike in its predecessor, Disk Utility
can no longer verify a disk, making sure its OK without unmounting it or performing
other operations. So now, First Aid must be able to unmount a drive to investigate
it, otherwise youll get an error.
- Click on Show Details to see a bit more of whats happening under the hood
Note that Disk Utility cannot repair the disk as much or as well as the third-party
products mentioned below, but if nothing else, it can alert you to problems that
need to be fixed. (And it's possible that Disk Utility might fix some things the
other programs cannot.)
Two popular and very good third-party products:
Disk Warrior from AlSoft
is an excellent product creating a new optimized disk directory (catalog). Instead
of attempting to repair a disk's directory (as some products can only do), Disk Warrior
builds a new (and optimized) directory. It is recommended to run Disk Warrior regularly
as preventative medicine.
Another good choice is Techtool
Pro from MicroMat whose basic
features are:
- create a new optimized disk directory (catalog) like Disk Warrior. This is crucial
capability, and an excellent preventative measure.
- disk repair utilities
- disk optimization
- scan the hard disk media for bad sectors or blocks
- a whole slew of other test and fix utilities
WINDOWS PCs
Windows PC's come with a disk repair utility called Error Checking (and
internally as CHKDSK). (In earlier versions of Windows it was called ScanDisk.)
Check a drive
for errors in Windows XP
Check
a drive for errors in Windows Vista
Check
a drive for errors in Windows 7
Details about using Error Checking:
- Before running Error Checking, it's a good idea to run Disk Cleanup, which is
in: Start | (All) Programs | Accessories | System Tools.
- Always check the box for "Automatically Fix Errors." You'll be prompted
to have the computer run Error Checking the next time you restart your computer.
- For basic weekly scans do not check "Scan for and attempt recovery of bad
sectors." But once in a while, or if you suspect bad sectors, you should check
this option, but realize it can take many minutes to complete this type of scan.
Third-party utilities are also available, such as Norton
Utilities from Symantec,
which usually offer more features and capabilities.
As you add and remove files on the hard disk, the files get fragmented (split
into pieces) and scattered around on various locations on the hard disk. This is
transparent to you, the user, thanks to the operation system. But it's a good idea
to occasionally (like every three months) defragment and optimize the files on your
hard disk. Defragmentation rewrites each file in one continuous group of disk sectors.
Optimization relocates the files to the optimum location on the disk based on file
type. Both of these operations improve the speed of your hard disk and help to minimize
certain types of freezes and crashes, and other odd behavior.
Some claim because of the huge size and speed of hard disks today the need for defragmentation
is much less. But it cannot hurt and will only help, so it's still recommended.
Before you perform defragmentation and optimization operations on your hard disk,
you likely need to temporarily disable any type of hard disk encryption (including
FileVault on Mac) or password protection software. Ideally, you should also:
- Run any disk repair utilities you have, being sure to scan the disk media for
bad sectors or blocks (See Run Disk Repair Utility Software
above.)
- Back up the entire hard disk, or at the very least, your
important documents.
Defragmentation and optimization processes move all or most of the files on the
hard disk, so if there's any problem, you will need a complete backup from which
to recover. (Of course, you are already performing a regular back
up, anyway, right...?)
By the way, before you defragment your disk, now is a good time to remove
any unneeded software, and clean up other files you
no longer need.
Be sure to read beforehand any documentation that comes with the defragmentation
and optimization program you are using for other important considerations. Most programs
claim to be pretty safe like if there's a power outage during the process...!
And make sure you have no other programs running while performing the defragmentation
and optimization processes. Windows users may want to start up in Safe Mode
first. (See Starting
your computer in Safe mode.)
A Note About Solid-State Drives (SSDs)
A nice as solid-state drives appear to be with no moving parts and faster speed
(compared to traditional hard disk drives), besides being much more expensive, they
have one other big drawback: they have a limited write cycle. You cannot write data
to the drive a nearly infinite number of times like you can with a traditional hard
disk drive; doing so severly shortens the drive's life span. In an attempt to partially
compensate for this shortcoming, many techniques are employed to spread the writing
of data over the entire capacity of the drive. The experts also recommend to never
defragment a solid-state drive, as doing so severely shortens the life span of
the drive.
This is a concern for Windows users, as the built-in Disk Defragmenter may run automatically
like as once a week. Be sure to turn that off! Open up the Disk Defragmenter
program, click the Configure Schedule button and in there you can turn off the scheduled
running.
MACs
Apple says with Mac OS X, "there is little benefit to defragmenting,"
as mentioned on this Web page. Apple
adds,
"If you think you might need to defragment, try restarting first. It might
help, and it's easy to do. But, If your disks are almost full, and you often modify
or create large files (such as editing video), there's a chance the disk could be
fragmented. In this case, you might benefit from defragmentation, which can be performed
with some third-party disk utilities."
This Web page, "Do You
Need to Defragment a Mac's Hard Drive?" also explains why defragmenting
a Mac OS X hard disk is likely never needed:
"Mac OS X [hard disks] rarely, if ever, need to have their disk space defragmented.
The only real exception to this is when your hard disk has less than 10 percent free
space. At that point, OS X is unable to perform its automatic defragmentation routines,
and you should consider either removing files or expanding your disk storage size."
If you feel you need to, here are few of the more popular defragmentation / optimization
programs available:
Remember, if you have a solid-state drive, never defragment a solid-state drive,
as doing so severely shortens the life span of the drive.
WINDOWS PCs
Windows PC's come with a built-in defragmentation / optimization utility called
Disk Defragmenter available in the Start / (All) Programs / Accessories /
System Tools. Third-party utilities are also available, such as Norton
Utilities from Symantec, which usually
offer more features and capabilities.
In Windows 7, Disk Defragmenter may run automatically at scheduled times. Open up
the program to verify that this is happning and when.
Remember, if you have a solid-state drive, never defragment a solid-state drive,
as doing so severely shortens the life span of the drive. So be sure to turn off
the automatic running of Disk Defragmenter. Open up the program, click the Configure
Schedule button and in there you can turn off the scheduled running.
Windows ME, XP, Vista, and Windows 7 have a neat feature called System Restore.
It takes "snapshots" of your system automatically every so often to which
you can return, should your computer's behavior become unruly, perhaps due to spyware,
a virus, a bad program that was installed, etc.. (The automatic System Restore feature
can be turned off if desired.) You can also create your own snapshots, called restore
points. It is recommended to do this before you install any software, or make any
major change, so that you can return your computer's software to its previous state
should the new software prove unreliable, or otherwise foul things up.
The procedure to create a restore point varies with each version of Windows. Here
is one way to do so in Windows 7, according to Microsoft: Create
a Windows 7 restore point
To return your system to a specific restore point, run System Restore by going to
Start / (All) Programs / Accessories / System Tools / System Restore. None of your
personal data is affected, only installed software and the operating system.
Do you have CDs or DVDs from which you can boot your computer should you ever
need to repair or recover your operating system and/or other software that came on
your computer?
MACs
These are the Mac OS disks that came with your computer. You can boot from these
and perform a Repair Disk operation or do complete restore of the operation system.
If you do not have these, see your Apple dealer.
For those with Mac OS X 10. 7 (Lion) use the Lion
Recovery Disk Assistant Tool (or see Apple
Lion Recovery Disk Assistant page for more details and a download link) to create
an external bootable recovery drive. This page will help: Lion
Recovery Disk Assistant Tool Makes External Lion Boot Recovery Drives. Here is
more about Lion Recovery.
WINDOWS PCs
Manufacturers used to provide the disks to repair or reinstall Windows, the hardware
drivers, and the factory-installed applications. They now "save a buck"
and make you create these. So, you need to create your own System Repair and
System Recovery disks whenever you first get a computer. If you have not already
done so, please, do so now!
- A System Repair Disk is one from which you can boot and perform repairs.
- System Recovery Disks are those that takes operating system and
software back to the original factory state. Anything you've installed since you
first bought the computer will be gone and therefore will need to be reinstalled.
You only want to use the System Recovery Disks as a last resort You need to
do a complete back-up all of your data before using these disks.
It's easy to accumulate software programs we no longer need or use. But it's important
to remove those programs, for not only do they take up unnecessary storage space,
they may also have processes running in the "background" slowing down the
computer, and adding to the mix of software with which everything else on the computer
has to be compatible.
First, identify any and all programs you no longer need. If you possess the CD or
DVD the software came on, if you remove a program now, you can reinstall it later
should you need it again. And if you downloaded the software from the Internet, you
can download it again later (and likely get a newer version) should you need it again.
Warning be careful, however, to NEVER remove any program or software you
don't recognize it may very well be an important part of your computer!
MACs
Removing software from Macs is not as important, for they tend to not burden the
system as much as on Windows machines. But some programs do consume system resources
and so if removed may improve your Mac's performance.
There are several ways to uninstall unneeded programs. For programs put in place
with an installer, run the installer and then look for the "uninstall"
feature. If the program created an Installer Log file, it lists the files installed,
and their location just remove these, and restart. And for some programs it's as
simple as dragging the program from the Applications folder to the Trash.
See also: Uninstalling
Applications in Mac OS X
There are also third-party programs available to help you cleanly remove unwanted
software.
WINDOWS PCs
Removing programs from a Windows computer can go from incredibly easy to virtually
impossible. All of the better and "nicer" software offer uninstallers.
If done properly all the program's files and its entries from the Windows Registry
are removed. Here are the recommended methods:
- A few programs offer an uninstaller feature right in the Start menu. Look in
the Start menu, under (All) Programs. For each program that has a submenu, look for
an uninstaller. If you get an uninstaller for the program you want to remove, you're
in luck, go ahead and click on that to remove that program.
- Go to the Add/Remove Software or Programs & Features control panel. Look
for software here that you recognize but know you no longer want or need. Click on
its name, then click the Add/Remove, Change/Remove, or Uninstall button, usually
neat the top of the window. Follow any on-screen instructions. If asked if you want
to delete a shared file, it's safest to select: no to all.
- If a program you are trying to remove did not offer an uninstaller in the Start
menu, or was not listed in the Add/Remove Software or Programs & Features control
panel, run the program's installer. Sometimes a Remove or Uninstall option if offered.
- Locate the folder containing the software and see if an uninstaller program is
provided. Don't be too hopeful here, however.
If you do not use a program's uninstaller, but try to remove the program manually,
you are likely asking for trouble. You are not removing all the files and processes
it put on your computer, as well as all the changes it made to system files and the
registry.
There are also third-party programs available to help you cleanly remove unwanted
software.
Are you doing all you can to remove unneeded and unwanted files and other gunk
from your computer?
Your Data
Of course it's up to you to maintain your data: all your documents, spreadsheets,
photos, music, videos, favorites, bookmarks, email, address book, desktop, folders,
etc.. Get rid of things no longer needed (or archive them to a CD or DVD) and keep
things organized. Otherwise your stuff can grow into a nearly unmanageable mess.
Unwanted Files and Other Gunk
Also important is to get rid of the myriad of unwanted files on the computer,
things like temporary files and caches, most of which are out of the user's sight
but often continually building.
MACs
Run a program like Onyx or YASU
(both are free) that clean out many unneeded files and caches and perform other helpful
chores. The free CCleaner for Mac
is also a good choice.
WINDOWS PCs
Run Disk Cleanup (Start Menu / (All) Programs) / Accessories / System Tools)
and/or the free CCleaner that clean
out many unneeded files and caches and other gunk.
Do you know what speed you are paying for? Do you have any idea what speed you're
actually getting? It helps to verify and monitor your Internet connection speed.
It's not uncommon that the speed you're paying for is different from what you're
actually receiving.
Most Internet service provides (ISPs) offer various levels of service that have a
specific maximum speed at which you are connected to the Internet. Use the Web sites
below to test the speed of your connection. It should consistently be 80% or better
of your ISP's promised speed. For example, if you have signed up for 12 mbps (megabits
per second) service, you should see at least 9.6 mbps at the test site. At any given
test site, test your speed a few times and at different times of day, and over several
days. If you are not consistently getting the speed of service you signed up for,
call your ISP. And monitor your speed regularly to see that it does not "degrade"
over time.
The location of the server being used to do a speed test makes a lot of difference.
In general, the closer a server is to your location the higher the speed you'll see.
The further a server is from you, the more you're testing Internet's network
speed, and less the speed of the connection through your ISP, so expect slower speeds.
So, to look for consistent results, use the same speed test each time you do a test
and test to the same servers find a test site that provides a server that's fairly
close to your location.
The performance of your Internet connection relies on many factors. For the most
consistent results when running a speed test:
- DSL users, be sure to have the DSL line filters installed on all devices connected
to your DSL phone line.
- If your "Internet supply line" (phone line for DSL users, coax cable
for cable TV and satellite Internet users) runs through a surge protector, UPS, or
other electrical protection equipment, temporarily bypassing that equipment may improve
Internet performance and offer a more accurate result.
- It may help to "power cycle" your modem, router, or gateway equipment
before running a speed test. Do that by turning the power to that equipment OFF for
a minute, then back ON. That will reset your connection and may improve your performance.
- Make sure no other devices are using the Internet connection at the time.
- Use the computer that's connected directly, via Ethernet cable, to your modem,
or router, gateway, and not a computer that's on a wireless connection.
- Always use the same computer when running the tests.
- Before running a speed test, update and run a full scan with any security software
you have to make sure your system is clean of any malware.
- Restart your computer, and then open only your Web browser (make sure no other
programs are running).
- Make sure no other activity like downloads, updates, and security scans are occuring.
- Turn off or close peer-to-peer file sharing, if you have that running.
Section 1.
The Test Sites...
The following test sites do not seem to accurately or consistently measure the speed
of the connection to your ISP, and/or do not so for both older and newer software
and hardware. But your results may be different, and you may, at least, be able to
use these test sites to measure how fast your computer can load data from a specific
Web site or server. See section 2 below for speed
test sites that more accurately and consistently measure the connection speed to
your ISP.
The Results...
Where one set of numbers are given, they are the combined results from both
an older machine and an older Web browser with those of a fairly new machine and
a newer Web browser, as the results were similar.
Where two sets of numbers are given, the first is from an older machine and
an older Web browser, and the second is from a fairly new machine and a newer Web
browser.
Results in bold are within the range of what Charter says is a 30 mbps
download and a 4 mbps upload connection.
The results shown are specific to my situation and location in Michigan. They are
from several tests starting on 10/09/2013 and were repeated at various times of the
day for a few weeks after that.. You should not expect the same results. But may
be able to use these as a rough guide of what to expect for your situation. |
|
|
Results
|
|
|
| Test Site |
Download
|
Upload
|
|
Server(s) Used (and other comments) |
|
| ATT Speed Test |
7 - 10
13 - 17
|
3.9 - 4.3
4.3 - 4.5
|
|
No choice of server, and server unknown. Also reports latency and jitter. This site
uses Ookla speed test technology. |
|
Broadband
Checker |
11 - 14
30 - 34
|
2.3 - 3.3
3.6 - 5.1
|
|
It says it chooses the "nearest" of 8 servers in the US, but sometimes
it does not choose wisely, and at times it even chooses locations outside the US.
So be sure to watch which server it chooses, as often it chooses a different server
each time, giving you inconsistent results. Results should only be compared with
tests done to the same server.
Beware of all the ads! |
|
PC Pitstop
Bandwidth |
18 - 26
|
3.8 - 4.2
|
|
You choose closest server, but from only three in the US and one in London. So the
results will likely be less, as you cannot choose a very close server. Be sure to
choose the same server for eash test for consistency. This site uses Ookla
speed test technology.
((Server chosen: Washington DC)) |
|
| Ping Test |
8- 12
31- 34
|
1.5 - 3
4.3 - 4.9
|
|
Tests for latency (averaged between small and large packets) and Internet speed. |
|
| Speed of Me |
15 - 19
18 - 33
|
4.1 - 4.2
1.3 - 4.6
|
|
"An HTML5 Internet speed test. No Flash or Java needed." Offers a graph
showing the live results. Seems weak in the upload speed, but it says it's showing
real-world download and upload results.
Does not work well on older browsers or older machines.
But can test for speeds up to 100 mbps. |
|
| Speed Test.net |
Test did
not run
27 - 37
|
Test did
not run
4.2
|
|
It chooses the nearest server but you can choose others.
It takes a while to load, especially on older browsers and/or older machines, and
when is did load, in some cases did not work. It looks like they are not set up to
handle the capacity of all their visitors, as well as older software and hardware.
This site uses Ookla speed test technology.
Beware of the ads!
((Server chosen: Allendale, MI)) |
|
| Test My Speed.com |
7 - 19
20 - 34
|
1.4 - 3.7
2.2 - 4.6
|
|
It chooses a server, at various locations in the US, and sometimes in the UK leading
to varying results. A server closer to your location will provide more accurate
results, so we wish it would always choose the closest server, or let you choose. |
|
Xfinity Comcast
Speed Test |
12 - 18
32 - 36
|
3.5 - 4.3
3.5 - 4.4
|
|
You choose from several servers in the US. (This site uses Ookla speed test
technology but for some reason gets inconsistent results.)
((Server chosen: Chicago)) |
Section 2.
The Test Sites...
On the other hand (compared to section 1), the following
test sites appear to more accurately measure the connection speed to your ISP.
Note that this is not the speed you should expect when connecting to just
any Web server on the Internet. (All of these use Ookla speed test technology,
but connect to servers in different cities) All of these provide more reliable and
consistent results for both older and newer software and hardware.
The Results...
These are the combined results from both an older machine and an older Web
browser with those of a fairly new machine and a newer Web browser, as the results
were similar.
Results in bold are within the range of what Charter says is a 30 mbps
download and a 4 mbps upload connection.
The results shown are specific to my situation and location in Michigan. They are
from several tests starting on 10/09/2013 and were repeated at various times of the
day for a few weeks after that.. You should not expect the same results. But may
be able to use these as a rough guide of what to expect for your situation.
|
| |
Results
|
|
|
| Test Site |
Download
|
Upload
|
|
Server(s) Used (and other comments) |
|
CenturyLink
Speed Test |
31 - 40
|
4.1 - 4.3
|
|
You choose closest server from 8 in the US. It says the test is optimized for speeds
up to 100 mbps download and 50 mbps upload.
((Server chosen: Chicago)) |
|
Charter
Speed Test |
27 - 41
|
4.0 - 4.3
|
|
It chooses the nearest server to your location on Charter's network, so if you're
a Charter customer, you're likely to get higher numbers (and more accurate results).
((Server chosen: Allendale, MI)) |
|
Speakeasy
Speed Test |
25 - 36
|
3.9 - 4.3
|
|
You choose closest server from 8 in the US.
((Server chosen: Chicago)) |
|
Verizon
Speed Test |
27 - 35
|
4.2 - 4.3
|
|
Appears to choose the closest server to your location based on several in the US.
It can measure connection speeds up to 500 mbps. But it says it is "accurate
(only) up to 100 mbps. Results for speeds above that may not be reliable."
Note that sometimes the page is very slow to load, and sometimes it does not load
at all. It looks like they are not set up to handle the capacity of all their visitors.
((Server chosen: Chicago)) |
|
Also...
- DSLReports Speed Test uses
no Flash of Java, just HTML 5, so it should work on any device, computer, tablet,
or smartphone. They choose the server they connect to, so the results are "skewed"
(worse) if the server is far away from your location.
- Fast.com offered by Netflix. It immediately
starts test download speed. The test performs a series of downloads from Netflix
servers. They say the test will work any device (computier, tablet, phone, laptop,
or smart TV) with a Web browser.
- Measurement Labs Network
Diagnostic Test (NDT) the test talks to their server, somewhere.
- SourceForge Internet Speed Test
uses no Flash of Java, just HTML 5, so it should work on any device, computer,
tablet, or smartphone
RAM (Random Access Memory) is not the same as hard disk space. Though both are
measured in similar units, such as megabytes (mB) or gigabytes (gB), hard disk space
is permanent storage for all the software and data installed on your computer. RAM
is temporary storage for a program (and its data) being "run" on your computer.
When you open a document, the computer runs the program that created it, and both
the document and the program are read from the hard disk into RAM. When you save
a document, a copy of that is read from RAM and written to the hard disk. Opening
larger and/or many documents at once requires more RAM. Opening many programs at
the same time requires more RAM.
The operating system and every program need a minimum amount of RAM to run efficiently.
If that amount is not available, the computer or the program will run very slowly
(if at all). On the other hand, adding more memory makes your computer "happy!"
It gives the operating system more "breathing room," and your computer
is much less likely to freeze or crash. Additional memory makes all programs "happier,"
too, having more that enough room in which to run. Having more RAM also allows you
to run more programs efficiently at once.
Adding RAM is relatively cheap and an easy way to speed up and improve your system.
And in general the price of RAM per GB continues to decline. Of course, the need
for RAM continues to grow with each new version of software, operating system, and
computer, so it's a good thing the cost of RAM continues its downward trend.
Having lots of memory increases the resale value of your computer when you move
up to a new one. And adding more now is a good idea should the price of memory go
up in the future.
So, install as much RAM as you can afford. Go beyond the minimum RAM requirements
for your particular OS (see below), at least double. Power users definitely need
several times more than the minimum amount of RAM. Having more RAM helps now and
will especially help in the future as RAM needs increase. Expect RAM requirements
to double with each new version of the Mac OS or Windows.
MACs
Adding more RAM can noticeably speed up your Mac, help all programs run better,
and allow you to run many programs at the same time more efficiently. The minimum
RAM requirements for the Mac OS are:
- Mac OS 10.7, Lion 2 gB
- Mac OS 10.6, Snow Leopard: 1 gB
- Mac OS 10.5, Leopard: 512 mB
- Mac OS 10.4, Tiger: 256 mB
Two to four times the minimum RAM requirement is highly recommended.
WINDOWS PCs
Adding more RAM on a Windows PC usually speeds it up significantly. helps all programs
run better, and allows you to run many programs at the same time more efficiently.
The minimum RAM requirements for Windows are:
- Windows 7: 1 gB (32-bit version) or 2 gB (64-bit version)
- Windows Vista: 512 mB
- Windows XP: 256 mB
Four times the minimum RAM requirement is recommended.
|
Special note about Windows 10, 01-2016
For the past several months, those with Windows 7 and Windows 8 are being
badgered by Microsoft with pop-ups, a system tray icon, and other items to upgrade
to Windows 10 for free. This is quite unfortunate, causing people grief, and we have
to teach them to avoid it, because:
- Windows 10 is "too new" and still has bugs and is causing problems
- it does not install properly on all computers
- it will not run properly on all computers
- it might not be compatible will all the software you may have
- it may cause your machine to slow down
- it has a different interface that many will not like, and there is a leaning
curve to figuring out how to use it
- one should do specific types "system scans" and full system back-up
anytime before upgrading an operating system, and for sure before installing a brand
new version
Avoid it for AT LEAST 6 months to a year until it can be studied by users
and experts (and then hopefully fixed and updated by Microsoft).
NOTE: If you are tired of being continually pestered by Microsft by the notifications
and pop-ups to get Windows 10, the free GWX
Control Panel software removes all of that.
|
An upgrade to the operating system (OS) is a major change in versions,
like from Mac OS 10.6 to 10.7, or from Windows 7 to Windows 8. (An update
is a minor change to the OS version, like from Mac OS 10.7.1 to 10.7.2, or from Windows
7 Service Pack 1 to Windows 7 Service Pack 2.)
Upgrades of the OS are released every few years, roughly 2-3 years for the Mac OS,
and 4-6 years for Windows. During the life of your computer it's likely you'll see
the release of at least one OS upgrade. (Updates to the OS happen much more frequently.)
A common question is, "should I upgrade to a newer or the latest version of
the operating system?" It's recommended to be very cautious about upgrading
to a new OS. (Updates, by the way, are fine and recommended.)
First, will your hardware meet the system requirements for the new OS? It's typical
that to jump 3 versions of the Mac OS and 2 versions of Windows requires a new computer
to adequately run that new OS. And an upgrade to any new OS requires more memory
(RAM) and may run slower (on your machine) than previous versions.
Also, much of the time when upgrading to a new OS you will need to upgrade many aspects
of the other software on your computer, such as:
- Software / drivers for hardware such as:
- Printers
- Scanners
- Printer / scanner / copiers
- Cameras
- Removable and external devices
- Internal hardware such as hard disks and optical drives
- Many of your application programs
- Many of your utility programs
- Your Internet programs (Web browsers and email)
- Much of your security software
- Music, photo, and video software
- Games
- Other third-party software
Some specific items may not be upgradable, or have an upgrade available, so you
may lose its capability. And some software or hardware may not even run under the
new OS.
Finding out which software needs to be upgraded can be a big chore. You may find
out only after several crashes and resolving several conflicts what software is the
cause.
You may have specific software or hardware needs which require you to move to the
new OS. At other times, you may have to upgrade your computer when you move to a
new OS. So it can be a never-ending circle! (Of course hardware and software vendors
love it they sell more stuff!)
Some people stay with a particular OS for years! That's okay, IF you never want to
communicate or share data with the rest of the world, or use the latest software
or hardware.
If all is working well with your current OS, usually there is not a compelling reason
to upgrade to the new OS. There may be a few new bells and whistles, but often not
a major difference in capabilities. On the other hand, sometimes there are major
bug fixes in a new OS. If you are having lots of problems with your current OS, it
may be that upgrading to a more stable OS is just what's needed. But any new OS can
introduce its own NEW bugs, as well, especially early versions of the OS. It is recommended
to not be an early adopter. In fact doing so can be dangerous. Wait a while after
the initial release of the OS, like for the first update to occur that's where
many bugs are fixed in the new OS.
Before you upgrade, seek out lists of known problems and incompatibilities with the
OS your are considering so you will know beforehand of what to expect and what software
(and possibly some hardware) you'll need to upgrade. These links may be helpful:
ALWAYS, before you do a update to Windows, or an upgrade of the Mac OS or Windows,
perform a complete clone-style back-up of your entire hard disk before proceeding.
It's a critical safety measure in case anything goes wrong, which is too often the
case.
Many users find it easiest to just buy a new computer every 3rd upgrade of the Mac
OS, and every other upgrade of Windows. There are many advantages to this, such as
you are guaranteed the new machine is compatible with the latest OS, the OS is already
installed, and your old machine is likely nearing the end of its useful life.
A computer's clock battery maintains the date and time and other system configuration
information when the computer is off, even when disconnected from a power source.
They do not last forever, a typical lifespan for a clock battery is between 3 to
8 years. One of the first indications that the clock battery is failing is if the
date and time are running slow, are way off, or have reverted back to one of the
computer's initialization dates. Check the time zone, clean your computer of any
malware, then reset the date and time. If they continue to be off, it's likely you
need to replace the clock battery.
MACs
Most Macintosh computers have a clock battery (which Apple calls a backup battery)
to maintain system settings, such as the date and time, when the computer is turned
off . The battery should five years (or more), but this varies based on the battery's
shelf life and usage patterns of the computer. Apple says "If your computer
is plugged into a power strip, turning off the strip will drain the internal battery
and shorten battery life." If your computer does not retain parameter RAM (PRAM)
settings (such as date and time) when it is turned off, this generally indicates
that the battery needs to be replaced. In some Macintosh models if the battery is
going bad, the computer may display a black screen when you turn it on or have intermittent
problems at start up.
Replacing the battery may cause some settings on your computer, such as date
and time, to revert to the factory default settings. You may also have to restore
modem settings in any communications programs you are using.
- For many Macs made between 1997 and 2006, see this page this Web
page for battery information and part numbers. Some of these models have batteries
the user can replace.
- Note that certain iBooks and Powerbooks do not have a backup battery, see here:
Portable Macintosh
Computers: Models Which Do Not Have a Backup Battery.
- Most of the LCD screen model iMacs (since about 2002), Mac Minis, and laptops
have a backup battery which is either difficult to replace or only Apple can replace
(unless you want to void the warranty). See your computer's manual or an "Apple-authorized service provider"
should you experience an issue with the date and time and/or suspect a failing clock
battery.
WINDOWS PCs
Windows Desktop Computers
The clock battery is also called the CMOS battery. According to this page,"Three
Reasons Why Your Windows Computer Clock Loses Its Time"
The CMOS battery provides power to the CMOS chip which stores information about
the system configuration, including the date and time. This battery allows the chip
to store this data while the computer is off and not connected to a power source.
If the battery goes bad, the chip can lose information and one of the symptoms is
that your computer no longer maintains the proper date and time. If your CMOS battery
dies, your computer will act like it has Alzheimer's and you have to introduce it
to its hardware components (via the BIOS) every time it boots.
Also, if you're seeing boot errors like "CMOS checksum error - load defaults"
that is usually due to a dead or dying CMOS battery.
The typical lifespan of the CMOS battery is said to be around five years, so many
experts suggest replacing the battery before it fails to avoid boot errors and losing
critical avoid CMOS settings.
If you suspect a bad clock battery, open the case, identify it, then purchase and
install a replacement. Consult your local computer professional for help, if necessary.
These links may help:
Windows Laptop Computers
These may or may not use a CMOS battery or other types of batteries (resume battery,
real time clock (RTC) battery, etc..). Consult your computer's manual, the manufacturer,
or a computer professional should you experience an issue with the date and time
and/or suspect a failing clock battery.
It's often difficult to remember all the details of who did what and when to maintain
a computer. This is especially true if there is more than one computer in the home
or office. So, it's recommended to keep a log for each computer of what was done,
when, by whom, and why. Include any version numbers of software involved, any companies
talked to, phone numbers, and the technician's name at those companies. Log any problem
and its resolution. This is not unlike a medical history, but for each computer.
In fact, consider keeping a log for all your vehicles, appliances, or anything that
needs a lot of attention or maintenance.
- For a quick understanding computer images (e.g. photographs), as well
as how to print them and send via email, read Section I
immediately below.
- But for a more detailed understanding of and working with computer images,
including obtaining photo-quality printouts, see Section II
below.
Section I. Computer Images The Short Version
Situation You have an image (such as a photograph) on your computer, and
you want to print it out, or send it to others to view or print. But what exactly
you want to do with the image, combined with the image's dimensions, determines how
you should handle the image.
A few things you need to know, first
Computer images have no physical size. Images are stored on the
computer as collection of dots (squares, actually) called pixels. They can
be displayed on a computer monitor very large. very small, and everywhere in between.
So do not be fooled by what you see on the screen, the image is only being displayed
at a particular "size."
Also, an image that appears very large on the screen is very likely one with large
dimensions (in pixels, explained below) and just being displayed at its "full
size" is can easily be displayed much smaller.
Image dimensions (in pixels ) Sometimes confusingly (and incorrectly)
referred to as resolution, this is the size of an image in pixels, such as
640 x 480 for an image that's 640 pixels wide by 480 pixels tall. Typically,
a larger dimension image will be of higher quality, showing much more detail and
be sharper than an smaller dimension image. Most photo editing or photo album programs
will tell you the image's dimensions (in pixels) you'll need to know this before
you can do more with the image.
Image density (resolution) Sometimes also referred to as resolution,
this is the number of pixels per inch (ppi) at which the image was created,
such as on a scanner. (Sometimes the units for density may incorrectly be referred
to as dots per inch (dpi).) For example, a typical setting on a scanner is
150 dpi, which scans the image at 150 pixels per inch. This information is stored
in the image file and most photo editing or photo album programs will tell you the
density of an image. The density is important when scanning an image and determines
the image's dimensions, but then can be ignored for the most part. What's more important
is to be aware of is the image's dimensions as defined above.
What's Going To Be Done With The Image?
If the image is to be printed (by you or someone to whom you are sending it),
the larger the image's dimensions, the better. Therefore, for images to be printed,
normally you should never lessen the image's dimensions. (Note that the "larger
the image's dimensions, the better" is true only up to a certain point. Beyond
that point, the computer file size of the image will be unnecessarily large, will
take much longer to send, and will not improve the quality of the printed result
(for a given printed size).)
Hopefully the dimensions of the image are large enough to achieve a a "photo-quality"
result for the physical size at which the image is to be printed. If the image dimension
are too small and/or it's printed out too large, the result will look blurry, grainy,
pixelated, or jagged. Fortunately, it's well known what image dimensions are best
to receive a "photo-quality" result for a given printed size this it
covered in see Printing Images below in Section
II.
If you are sending a large dimension image via email, be aware that:
- With some programs, especially Outlook Express, because of the particular way
they display images, when viewing the image in an email message it may appear very
large, many times bigger than the screen. This is OK, it's just the way the program
displays large dimension images. The image can be saved and viewed in another program
at a more manageable size.
- A large dimension image is also much larger in computer file size, so it will
take longer to send and be received in email than one of smaller dimensions.
- Since you know your recipients are going to want a high quality print-out, they
will be glad you sent a large dimension image.
- Sent via email for viewing (and not high quality printing)
If you are going to send the image to someone (such as via email) and you wish
to give them a version of the image that is only just good enough for viewing (but
not for a high quality print-out), you will help them out by first decreasing
the image's dimensions, as that makes the file size of the image smaller and
is therefore sent and received much faster. This is especially important when dealing
with slow Internet connections. And a smaller dimension image will also display smaller
(at a more reasonable size) in some programs, like the old Outlook Express. (Note,
however, if printed, a smaller dimension image will not be near the quality of a
larger dimension image.)
Crop the image Before decreasing the image's dimensions, you'll want to
crop the image to remove any unnecessary subject matter. First make copy of the desired
image and make the changes on it you never want to change the original. Then using
a photo editing program, crop the image as desired. This lowers the file size of
the image, as well.
Decrease the dimensions To decrease the dimensions of an image, you have
to work with it in a photo editing program. If you have not already done so, make
copy of the desired image and make the changes on it you never want to change the
original. Most photo editing programs have some method for decreasing the image's
dimensions. See Choose the dimensions below. Some programs
even decrease the dimensions as part of sending the image via email this is very
convenient. The smaller the image's dimensions, the smaller the file size of the
image, so it will send faster in email. But don't go too small or the image will
be displayed too small on the screen, and/or appear blurry.
Choose the dimensions A dimension of 800 by 600 pixels
is a good starting point. In programs (like the old Outlook Express) that display
the image at full size, an image this size appears fairly big without being larger
than the screen. Another choice is 640 x 480 which will display much smaller than
the full screen. Experiment a few times to find the dimensions you like and make
a note of this for the future.
For more details about this topic, please read the next section.
Section II. Computer Images The Detailed Version
What is an image file?
An image stored in the computer is only an organized collection of colored small
squares, called pixels. Pixels are usually too small to see and have no physical
size. An image can be displayed at any size you like on a computer. You
can zoom in and out on the image, but you are changing only what's being displayed
on the screen; the image file on the computer is not affected in any way. (By the
way, if you zoom in far enough, you can see the individual pixels.)
Computer images have no physical size
A common misunderstanding on computers is the size of an image stored on the
computer. People will receive or take a digital photo image and then ask, or try
to determine, its physical size, in inches.
But as will be explained below, an image stored on the computer has no physical
size. The same is true of any data on the computer.
Do not be fooled by what you see on the screen; the image is only being displayed
at a particular "size" (and that is a combination of many factors, such
as the zoom level in the program you're using and your monitor's resolution). An
image that appears very large is likely one with large dimension in pixels (explained
below) being displayed at its "full size" that image can easily be displayed
much smaller.
Image dimension (in pixels)
An image's dimension is the number of pixels of its width times the number
of pixels of its height, such as 640 x 480. This is sometimes confusingly
and incorrectly referred to as resolution, but resolution really
only applies when talking about the image's "density" i.e. so many
pixels per inch or ppi (this is covered below).
You cannot change the size of an image, as it has no physical size. But you
can affect its dimensions. Typically, a larger dimension image will be of higher
quality, showing much more detail and be sharper than an smaller dimension image.
For example, if you have two identical photos of the same subject but of different
dimensions (say, one at 640 x 480 pixels and another that's 1600 x 1280), and print
them both at the same physical size (for example, 4 x 6), the smaller dimension
image will look much worse (blurrier, grainier, pixelated) than the larger dimension
one. That's because the larger dimension one is being printed with many more pixels
per inch of paper (ppi) and the subject is broken into many more and smaller pieces
of information so it comes out sharper. For more about printing, see Printing
Images below.
Your photo editing or photo album program will tell you the image's dimensions.
You'll need to know this before you can do more with the image.
By the way, although the sharpness of an image is greatly influenced by an image's
dimensions (the size of an image in pixels), this should not be mistaken with JPG
quality (sometimes called JPG compression) which you'll see in some photo
editing programs. JPG quality is a totally different aspect of an image, and is related
to the lossy (where data is lost) compression adjustment, a characteristic specific
to JPG images. Adjusting the JPG quality affects the appearance of the image and
greatly affects the image's file size on the computer. When saving in the JPG format,
to maintain the highest image quality, always save at the highest JPG quality level.
Scanners and original size
When you scan an item such as a photo, some scanners will measure and record the
physical size of the original item and embed that as part of the image file. This
allows some photo editing programs to talk about the original size of a photo,
meaning the physical size of the original photographic print. If you choose to print
the image at the original size, the program will adjust the size of the image so
that it's printed at the same physical size as the original print.
Image density (resolution)
Sometimes also referred to as resolution, or original resolution,
this is the number of pixels per inch (ppi) at which the image was created,
such as on a scanner.( Sometimes the units for density may incorrectly be referred
to as dots per inch (dpi).) For example, a typical setting on a scanner is
150 dpi, which scans the image at 150 pixels per inch. This information is stored
in the image file and most photo editing or photo album programs will tell you the
density of an image. The density is important when scanning an image and determines
the image's dimensions, but then can be ignored for the most part. What's more important
is to know the image's dimensions (defined above).
There is also the printed resolution of printed image this is how many pixels
per inch (ppi) you're asking the printer to use to print the image. To determine
the printed resolution, divide the image's dimensions by the size in inches of the
desired printed image. For example, if you print a 900 x 900 size image at 3"
x 3", the printed resolution is 900/3 = 300. To receive "photo-quality"
results when printing, a minimum printed resolution is required, at least 200 ppi;
see Printing Images below for details.
About resolution:
- The term resolution regarding images is properly used when talking about
the number of pixels per inch (ppi) at which the image was created or printed. Sometimes
photo editing programs talk about the resolution of an image, which is incorrect
and confuses the issue. A computer image in only a collection of pixels and is simply
defined by its dimensions (such as 640 x 480 pixels).
- To add to the confusion is the term monitor resolution, which is a setting
of how many dots are displayed on the screen, like 1600 x 1200. And monitor resolution
can also refer to the number of dots per inch (dpi) being displayed on the
screen!
Viewing images
Most computers have several programs that can view image files, such as:
- Web browsers (e.g. Internet Explorer, FireFox, Google Chrome, Apples Safari,
Opera, Netscape),
- email clients (e.g. Windows Live Mail, Windows Mail, Apple Mail, Outlook,
Outlook Express, Thunderbird, Eudora),
- photo editors (e.g. Adobe PhotoShop, Picasa, Microsoft PictureIt, iPhoto,
GraphicConverter)
- and many others!
What can be confusing is that each program may display the image differently.
For example, Outlook Express, an email program from the Windows XP era and earlier,
often shows images at a ratio of one image pixel per monitor dot (sometimes also
and confusingly called pixels). Since monitors have a pretty low resolution (in this
case the number of screen dots per inch or dpi) of around 72 to 96 dpi, a large dimension
image will be displayed very large and extend way off the screen. The programmers
of Outlook Express could have chosen to display the image differently, such as to
display the whole image on the screen. This would have avoided a lot of confusion,
and made the image much more convenient to view.
Thankfully, many programs these days, and almost all photo editing programs, initially
display the image at size the fits the window (thus having to interpolate the image
and display it at a ratio of several image pixels per screen dot). So, the same image
that looked so large in Outlook Express is displayed much smaller. In photo editing
programs, you can zoom in and out, doing so changes only the size of what's displayed
(and not image computer file in any way). Usually an option to view the image at
full size (showing the image at a ratio of one image pixel per screen dot) is offered.
And if so, just like in Outlook Express, a large dimension image will appear very
large, perhaps many times larger than your screen.
Images in email
When you send an image via email, you need to decide ahead of time the dimensions
of the image you're going to send. Again, you do not determine the physical size;
there is no size associated with a computer image. All you can affect is the dimensions
of the image. If you send a large dimension image, the file size will be larger than
that of a smaller dimension image. It will take longer for you to send and longer
for the recipients of your email to receive. So if your recipients have a slow Internet
connection, you're doing them a favor by sending a smaller dimension image. However,
as you'll see below, if you want your recipients to be able to print a high quality
version of what you're sending them, you'll want to send a large dimension version
of the image.
When your recipients receive your image, they can save it to their computer and do
with it as they wish. In most programs when viewing the image, they can zoom in and
out on it, letting them go from seeing the complete image to viewing detailed parts
of it. If they want a good quality printout, they'll be glad you sent them a large
dimension image. If they don't care about printing the image and just want to see
a quick snapshot of the image, a medium or smaller dimension image will do, such
as 800 x 600, or 640 x 480.
Printing images
When you print an image, you usually indicate the physical size you would like
the image to be printed on the paper. The image's dimensions (in pixels) divided
by the physical size you specify is called printed resolution in ppi (pixels
per inch). This resolution directly affects the clarity and quality of the printed
image the higher the printed resolution, the better the result. (Note, this is
true but only up to a certain point. Beyond that, no discernible improvement in quality
is gained (for a given printed size), and the computer file size of the image will
be unnecessarily large.) Also:
- The printout of a smaller dimension image will look worse (blurrier, grainier,
pixelated) than that of a larger dimension image. This is because the smaller dimension
image has a lower printed resolution.
- A larger printout will look worse (blurrier, grainier, pixelated) than a smaller
printout of the same image. This is because the larger physical printout has a lower
printed resolution.
The printed resolution (ppi) represents the amount of pixels that will be printed
per inch on the paper. This should not be confused with the printer's dpi setting,
which controls the number of dots of ink per inch that the printer will print. Dots
are not the same as pixels. Dots are individual colors dithered together to create
a precise color of a given pixel. You can print a 200 ppi printed resolution image
at many different dots per inch (dpi) values, like 360 dpi, 720 dpi, 1440 dpi or
2880 dpi. The way the printer software interprets the printed resolution involves
some complex calculations and both the printed resolution and the printer's dpi are
factors which impact the quality of printout..
When you print an image, for a "good" photo-like quality printout, you
want a printed image resolution of at least 200 pixels per inch (ppi). Be
very mindful of this when you choose image dimensions and the physical size at which
you wish to print. You must also use photo paper and the printer's highest quality
image settings (such as dpi and others). To use a printed resolution of 200
ppi means:
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Printed resolution: 200 ppi
|
|
For a print-out
of this size:
|
|
Start with an image
that's at least:
|
|
Megapixels
of image:
|
|
11 x 14
|
|
2200 x 2800 pixels
|
|
6.2 MP
|
|
8.5 x 11"
|
|
1700 x 2200 pixels
|
|
3.74 MP
|
|
8 x 10
|
|
1600 x 2000 pixels
|
|
3.2 MP
|
|
5 x 7
|
|
1000 x 1400 pixels
|
|
1.4 MP
|
|
4 x 6
|
|
800 x 1200 pixels
|
|
0.96 MP
|
|
3 x 5
|
|
600 x 1000 pixels
|
|
0.60 MP
|
So to get a good borderless 8.5 x 11" print, we'll need a 4 MP camera (at
least), and must use its highest image quality settings, of course. Some claim a
printed resolution of 230 ppi is required. To see what this means, see the next section.
Image dimensions, digital cameras, and printing
It may help to point out how image dimensions and print size relate to digital
cameras. If we take the recommended (from the section above) 1600 x 2000 pixels for
an 8 x 10 printout and determine the total number of pixels for that image by multiplying
1600 times 2000, we get 3,200,000 pixels, or 3.2 mega pixels (MP). You can see why
3 MP cameras were standard for a while.
Later, 4 MP cameras became the most popular. This came about because borderless 8.5
x 11 printouts were desired, and to get those, you need start with an image that's
at least 1700 x 2200 pixels. Multiplying 1700 times 2200 is 3,740,000 pixels, or
3.74 MP.
Around 2008 it was said that a 5 MP image was needed for the finest photographic
quality 8.5 x 11 printouts on photo paper. That requires an image that's 2000 x
2500 pixels, or exactly 5 MP. This works out to a new printed resolution value of
about 230 pixels per inch to achieve the best photo-quality printouts, versus 200
ppi mentioned above. To use a printed resolution of 230 ppi value means:
|
Printed resolution: 230 ppi
|
|
For a print-out
of this size:
|
|
Start with an image
that's at least:
|
|
Megapixels
of image:
|
|
16 x 22
|
|
3680 x 5060 pixels
|
|
18.6 MP
|
|
12 x 16
|
|
2760 x 3680 pixels
|
|
10.2 MP
|
|
11 x 14
|
|
2530 x 3220 pixels
|
|
8.1 MP
|
|
8.5 x 11"
|
|
1955 x 2530 pixels
|
|
5.0 MP
|
|
8 x 10
|
|
1840 x 2300 pixels
|
|
4.2 MP
|
|
6.7 x 9
|
|
1549 x 2066 pixels
|
|
3.2 MP
|
|
5 x 7
|
|
1150 x 1610 pixels
|
|
1.9 MP
|
|
4 x 6
|
|
920 x 1380 pixels
|
|
1.3 MP
|
|
3 x 5
|
|
690 x 1150 pixels
|
|
0.8 MP
|
Here we see, for example, that to get really good photo-quality for an 11"
x 14" print we'll need an 8.1 MP camera. Or that printing a 920 x 1380 pixel
image at 8" x 10" is likely to not be of photographic quality.
Notice also, if you are never going to print larger than 5" x 7" that a
2 MP camera will do just fine (and likewise for another print sizes). But if you
do a lot of cropping of photos, you'll want to start with a larger dimension photo,
so the resulting image is large enough for printing based on the values in the table
above.
Some pros, like Ken Rockwell,
say, "Ideally you'd like to print at 300 PPI to (get a) look (that's) super-sharp
even when viewed too close with a magnifier." This is likely overkill for all
but the pros. To use a printed resolution of 300 ppi value means:
|
Printed resolution: 300 ppi
|
|
For a print-out
of this size:
|
|
Start with an image
that's at least:
|
|
Megapixels
of image:
|
|
16 x 22
|
|
4800 x 6600 pixels
|
|
31.7 MP
|
|
12 x 16
|
|
3600 x 4800 pixels
|
|
17.3 MP
|
|
11 x 14
|
|
3300 x 4200 pixels
|
|
13.9 MP
|
|
8.5 x 11"
|
|
2550 x 3300 pixels
|
|
8.4 MP
|
|
8 x 10
|
|
2400 x 3000 pixels
|
|
7.2 MP
|
|
6.7 x 9
|
|
1549 x 2700 pixels
|
|
5.4 MP
|
|
5 x 7
|
|
1500 x 2100 pixels
|
|
3.2 MP
|
|
4 x 6
|
|
1200 x 1800 pixels
|
|
2.2 MP
|
|
3 x 5
|
|
900 x 1500 pixels
|
|
1.35 MP
|
The megapixel myth and sensor size
There are other factors besides the megapixel size of the camera that affect the
camera's image qualtiy. Ken
Rockwell says, "Image clarity is more dependent on how you shot the photo
than the number of megapixels. A clean shot from a 3MP camera is much better than
a slightly out-of focus shot from a $5,000 12 MP camera." See these articles,
for example:
As mentioned at this
Web page, your camera's sensor size is also a factor.
"The sensor size is of digital SLRs are typically 40% to 100% of the surface
of 35mm film. Digital compact cameras have substantially smaller sensors offering
a similar number of pixels. As a consequence, the pixels are much smaller, which
is a key reason for the much lower image quality, especially in terms of noise and
dynamic range."
A few articles about sensor size:
Further study
This site covers much of the above in even more detail:
Image Size and Resolution
Return to TABLE OF
CONTENTS
If you have any questions regarding any of this information,
please contact me (see contact info at the top of page).
